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Stovetop and Oven Cookware
Stovetop and Oven Cookware
I truly empathize with the person who enters the “housewares” section of any up-to-date department store with the goal of outfitting a kitchen with the right pots and pans. There are so many to choose from! Please, don’t buy a “set” just because they look great or have an attractive price tag. It’s better to collect only a few wonderful pieces than to have loads of something that you won’t ever use. When selecting cookware, you should know that certain materials definitely lend themselves better to specific cooking procedures. Although copper is thought of as the crème de la crème of cookware because of its superior heat-conduction qualities, copper cookware is also delicate, extraordinarily expensive and hard to maintain. For these reasons I don’t recommend purchasing copper pots in quantity. However, if possible, I do suggest buying one 2 1/2-quart copper saucepan with a tight-fitting lid, just so you can experience its unique character. I’ve chosen this size because it’s one of the most frequently used pots in most kitchens.
But for durability, ability to conduct heat evenly, price and especially versatility, I recommend that most of your pots and pans be made from stainless steel with a thick bottom layer of copper and/or aluminum. This combination of materials gives you the best of all worlds: the heat-conduction ability of copper and aluminum, and the non-reactive surface of stainless steel. Aluminum, unlined copper and cast iron by themselves react poorly with acidic ingredients (such as citrus juice, wine, tomatoes and vinegar) by imparting a metallic taste and an off color, thus it is extremely important to use a non-reactive pan when cooking acidic foods. Most of the “high quality” cookware companies also make a non-stick line and I also recommend having one or two non-stick skillets. Enamel-coated cast iron (although heavy) is a wonderful choice when making delicate sauces and long-cooking braised dishes because the bottom is so heavy that the mixture has less chance of scorching and the enamel coating is also non-reactive.
Those items that I feel are essential to successful cooking with minimal frustration are included in the Must Haves list. I have also included under Fancy Footwork some of my favorite extras that I use in my recipes. You’ll find more about specialized cookware for baking in the Primarily for Baking section.
Must Haves
Baking dishes (oven-to-table): Made from heatproof glass, ceramic, or porcelain in assorted sizes, with and without heatproof covers. A 2 1/2-quart dish with cover, and a shallow 9×13-inch uncovered glass roasting pan (Pyrex) are very useful sizes. The latter is particularly good for making one-dish meals like lasagna.
Baking sheets (cookie sheets or half-sheet pans): For all-purpose use, you should have two shallow heavy metal sheets with one-inch sides and as wide and long as your oven can accommodate. (In some double ovens, one oven is larger than the other so purchase accordingly.) These pans are sometimes called cookie sheets but I don’t ever use them to bake cookies, because their sides shield the cookies from full heat during baking. (See the following section on baking.) Nevertheless, these baking sheets (preferably made from heavy aluminum) are indispensable in even the most basic kitchen. Those sheets made from black steel are perfect for baking crusty sheet breads on either hot quarry tiles or on a baking stone, but I don’t recommend them for everyday use. Also their darker color makes them extra heat-retentive and is therefore not suitable for all cooking or baking purposes. Baking sheets also come with a non-stick finish. (See Primarily for Baking section.)
Broiler pan: Purchase a two-part pan with a shallow rectangular bottom and a top covered with open slots to enable fat to drain away from meat when broiling.
Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid: I recommend the 10-or 12-quart size for making large batches of braised dishes like osso buco so the meat can lay flat and maintain its shape during cooking. Another option is a 6- or 8-quart Dutch oven. But since most braised foods are so freezer-friendly, I suggest owning the larger pot.
Griddle: I personally suggest owning an electric griddle which, after it’s plugged in, will maintain the right temperature until you unplug it. Get the one with the largest cooking surface as possible to cook large batches of pancakes in less time.
Roasting pan: Rectangular uncovered pan usually 2 to 4 inches deep and available in a variety of sizes. Purchase a heavy stainless steel pan for its durability and non-reactive qualities, preferably with a layer of aluminum on the bottom underside for best heat conduction. I suggest owning at least one that is as large as your oven rack will accommodate. These pans are used to roast large heavy cuts of beef, pork or turkey and to make gravy over direct heat after roasting. They may also be used for a hot-water bath when baking delicate egg-based mixtures.
Roasting rack: V-Shaped, non-stick or stainless steel. This raises meat or poultry off the bottom of a roasting pan to allow for total heat exposure during roasting. If using a large roasting pan, be sure your rack is strong enough to support large cuts of meat or poultry. If not using a non-stick rack, spray it with vegetable spray before positioning your meat.
Saucepans: For a basic kitchen, I recommend three stainless steel saucepans with a layer of aluminum or copper on the bottom underside for best heat conduction. You should purchase 1-quart, 2 1/2-quart and 4-quart sizes, all with tight-fitting lids.
Skillets and sauté pans: Have an 8-inch, a 10-inch, a 12-inch and, if your burner is wide enough, a 14-inch skillet, with heavy bottoms and sides that are sloped on some and straight and deep on others. A 3-quart capacity pan with short side handles and sloped sides is great for making stove-top and then oven-baked dishes that can be served directly from the pan. Have a large non-stick skillet for pan-searing butterflied chickens and a smaller one, 6 or 8-inches, for cooking eggs. And, I wouldn’t part with my 10-inch cast iron skillet that’s been seasoned to perfection
Stockpot (8-quart preferably with built-in strainer): I give this item a “must have” two stars! Called a blanching pot or spaghetti pot, one with a built-in strainer is ideal for blanching successive batches of vegetables without draining the water or for easily draining hot pasta. This is my favorite pot and I use it every day. Whether or not you purchase one with the strainer, you’ll need a pot with this capacity. Stockpots are tall rather than wide to inhibit excess evaporation during long exposure to gentle heat when making stock. If you have a large family or like to cook big and freeze, owning a 16-quart stockpot is very useful (also available with a built-in strainer).
Fancy Footwork
Baking dishes (not standard): Having 6 to 8 individual au gratin dishes is a fun way to bake and serve savory entrées. A 2- and 3-quart oven-to-table baking dishes are perfect for side or main dishes that are baked and served au gratin. And, individual 8-ounce oven-proof dishes are good for baking or molding individual desserts.
Butter pot with spout: A small saucepan, just right for melting butter for basting or greasing pans.
Blanching pot (with built-in strainer): See Stockpot
Cast Iron skillet (10 inches): Reactive and not to be used (until it’s well seasoned) with acidic ingredients (tomatoes, wine, vinegar and citrus). If this is the first few times you’re using your cast iron skillet, after giving it an initial cleaning, dry it meticulously and then apply a thin but even coating of vegetable oil to the entire surface (inside and out, including the handle), bake the pan in a preheated 375°F oven for one hour. Allow the pan to cool in a turned off oven. Do this after each use, the first few times, then you can consider the pan “seasoned.” Repeat this oiling and baking procedure after every five or six uses and it will eventually become “non-stick.” Don’t clean cast iron pans with soap, since they will retain a soapy taste. If there are any stubborn particles of food, rub the surface with coarse salt using a paper towel.
Crocks (oven-proof) or deep mugs: Having 8 of these will enable you to make individual pot pies or soups to be served au gratin.
Double boiler: Preferably heatproof glass to enable you to view the behavior of the water beneath the delicate mixture in the upper pan.
Fajitas pan with a wooden trivet: Made of pure cast iron, when seasoned properly, this is a great pan to use when making homemade fajitas or to pan-sear steaks and chops on the stove and then finish them in the oven. Purchase a pan that comes with its own wooden trivet, so you can bring the food, when sizzling, directly to the table.
Fish poacher: These are 18- to 24- inches long, but the shorter one is better suited for stovetops in most homes.
Grill pan: For indoor grilling. Although there are cast iron stovetop grills available, they are too heavy and are difficult to clean. I suggest using a large, rectangular stove-top grill with a non-stick finish. The large size will be able to straddle two burners at one time, enabling you to sear more food at one time.
Cautionary note: You should not attempt to sear meat using a, stovetop grill without the aid of an exhaust fan (that works)! If you do, you’ll inevitably fill your home with lots of smoke (thus you better have a gorgeous peach pie ready to give the firemen when they arrive!). If you don’t have a reliable exhaust fan, do not use the stove-top grilling method. Instead, simply use your oven broiler to achieve great results. Preheat the broiler until very hot with the oven rack positioned as close to the heating element as possible. Trim the meat to remove as much external fat as possible, then lay your food on a cold broiler pan and broil until deeply colored on each side and cooked to your liking (turning once). If applicable to your oven, be sure to broil with the oven door ajar to keep an eye on things. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding proper door position when using your broiler. I’ve had very delicious results whether broiling fish, steaks or chops; however, when broiling chicken with skin, position the oven rack one shelf lower (farther away from the heating element), to prevent skin from burning and thus smoking.
Lasagna pan (large): Purchase a 15 x 10-inch baking dish that’s 3 inches deep.
Omelet pan: A small 6- to 8-inch non-stick pan with sloping sides is perfect for making and individual omelet using 2 to 3 extra-large eggs.
Paella pan: A paella pan, or other wide, shallow stove and oven-proof baking dish measuring 14- to 16-inches across the top and 5 1/2-quart capacity is great for baking and serving large, one dish pasta dishes.
Pressure Cooker: Like a crock pot, pressure cookers make it possible for busy people who are out for most of the day to be able to eat soothing braised dishes (and not just be limited to quick sautés or broiling lean sources of protein). They are available in all sizes and configurations. I suggest getting a large pressurized skillet and a 5- to 8- quart pressure cooker, depending on the size of your family. And, if you have the room, you can also get a huge 12-quart one for making stock in less time.
Ramekins: Small individual baking cups with a 3/4 cup capacity, made out of heatproof ceramic or glass.
Rolling pin: 3-foot long, made of smooth, straight (not tapered) wood, for rolling out fresh pasta dough. If unavailable, cut the dough into smaller pieces and use a shorter straight pin.
Saucepan (2-quart heavy-bottomed enamel-coated cast iron saucepan): Preferably with a spout. This is a perfect saucepan for making delicate custards or caramel syrup and the spout enables you to pour hot liquids into an electric mixer without spilling. This non-reactive pan not only has a heavy bottom for even heat distribution, but because of its light-colored interior, you will be much less likely to burn sugar when making a caramel syrup due to misjudging the stage of caramelization. Take care not to use abrasive tools or the enamel will chip. Also, don’t overheat this type of pan while empty; doing so can cause the interior to crack.
Soufflé dishes: With 4-cup, 8-cup or 9-cup capacities, these round, straight-sided bowls make great baking dishes and are excellent for oven-to-table serving.
Vegetable steamer (stainless steel): Purchase the collapsible type for its ability to fit within pots of different sizes.
Wok with lid: Fun and efficient for making authentic Asian stir-fry or deep-fry dishes, woks come in a variety of sizes. Originally made to be used over direct flame, woks are now available with a non-stick finish, with a flat bottom for use on an electric stovetop, and even in an electric version. When made out of ordinary steel (that’s not stainless), woks must be cared for properly in order not to rust. Do not wash these pans; instead, after cooking, wipe out thoroughly and, using a paper towel, rub some coarse salt on the interior to remove any food that’s stuck. Then (and this is important!) rub both the interior and exterior with vegetable oil, wipe out excess and store. If this is the first few times you’re using a wok, after cleaning and applying oil, bake the pan at 375°F for 30 minutes. Allow the pan to cool in a turned off oven. After a few times, the pan will become “seasoned.” Don’t allow a seasoned wok to hang in the open since it can attract airborne dust and debris (and pet hairs!). Also, to protect the finish on non-stick woks, don’t use salt or other abrasives when cleaning. These can be washed like any other piece of nonstick cookware.
