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Kitchen Essentials
From apple corers to whisks, here are all the tools to make cooking as fun, easy and efficient as possible. Unless otherwise mentioned, I recommend stainless steel for its durability and resistance to rust. Those tools that I consider essential and use most often in my recipes are listed under Must Haves. All of these items should be available in your local hardware store for a modest price. If not, check the housewares section of a department store or specialty kitchen shop. In Fancy Footwork, you’ll find a list of more specialized tools; though I don’t consider them essential to a basic, well-tooled kitchen, they are wonderful to have in your kitchen as well. Many are designed to make specific cooking tasks a breeze; others are things you’ll definitely want to have as you advance your culinary skills.
Must Haves
Apple corer: Although a melon scoop can be used to remove seeds from halved fruit, the only way to remove the core without cutting the fruit in pieces is to use a corer. I prefer the larger corer that comes as one long cylinder with a circular blade, which is particularly suited to larger baking apples, pineapple or citrus fruit.
Bowls (stainless steel): These lightweight, heatproof, non-reactive, nested bowls are invaluable to any kitchen for mixing, storage and even heating. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Get some that are low and wide and others that are tall and somewhat straight-sided. A couple of the larger 6 and 8-quart bowls are needed for whisking and then sifting large dry mixes, and also for accommodating a yeast dough, as it rises.
Brushes (pastry): An essential tool for basting meat, poultry and fish with marinades, or for applying an egg glaze to yeast breads or a fruit glaze to sweet tarts. Buy two brushes and tag one handle for sweet and the other for savory purposes with a piece of adhesive tape. Wash bristles meticulously with warm soapy water and rinse thoroughly in several changes of water to remove any trace of soap.
Brushes (vegetable): You need a stiff brush (to scrub potatoes, carrots and the like) and a small soft brush with plastic bristles (frequently made in the shapes of fruits and vegetables) to scrub debris out of the thin crevices on young and delicate root vegetables. A soft brush is also a quick and efficient way to scrub scraps of dough off your hands after kneading a yeast dough.
Bulb baster: A long tube, topped with a hollow rubber bulb to suck up hot drippings for basting a roast during cooking. Preferably, the tube should be see-through.
Can opener: I prefer the hand-held openers to the electric ones, since some electric machines can’t hold heavy cans. I suggest owning two hand-operated openers, since you never know when a can opener will decide not to work right in the middle of a cooking procedure.
Can opener (pointed/ bottle-cap opener): The pointed end is used to punch two triangular openings on the top of a can for easy pouring. The other side is used to bend off metal bottle caps.
Carving board: Purchase a large wooden board with a groove or “valley” that goes all around the edge to catch the juice from your roast as you carve.
Citrus juicer: I prefer a wooden reamer. After each use, promptly rinse off the deep crevices on a reamer and let dry before storing. Use an electric juicer as an alternative.
Colander: Large, sturdy and preferably stainless steel. To rinse large amounts of fruits, vegetables and shellfish as well as to strain large amounts of heavy solids from liquid after cooking.
Corkscrew: Get a strong one, and preferably with wing handles.
Cutting boards: Have a few heavy plastic slabs, for everyday prep work (for both chopping aromatic vegetables and cutting fresh fruits), keeping those for each purpose separate to prevent strawberries from tasting like onions. I slice bread on a wooden board and carve meat on another board that has a recessed valley around the rim, to catch meat juices. I also have a small inexpensive board that I use for making holes in the disc part of screw top lids, when making shaker-tops, since the indentations created by the point of center-punch will permanently “dimple” the board, creating a potential breeding ground for bacteria, if then used to cut food.
Exhaust fan: Having one, in good condition, is essential if you plan to pan-sear foods over high heat indoors. Have the filters cleaned regularly, according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Fork (long two-pronged): Used for carving, this is also called a “roast fork” and is available in three different degrees of “curve.” The straightest ones are the most desirable for carving and those with the most severe curve are preferred for moving large roasts from the roasting rack to the carving surface. The third and most versatile is only slightly curved, and is the one I suggest for a “bare essentials” list, since it can be used for all of the above purposes as well as for stirring pasta strands during cooking.
Gloves: Disposable (thin non-powdered): Invaluable when working with hot chili peppers, to keep their volatile oils from reaching, and hurting, your eyes, ears, nose or any open cuts on fingers. Available in the local pharmacy.
Gloves (oven mitts): Have a minimum of two pairs that are elbow-high and in perfect condition. Never use mitts when even slightly damp as this permits heat to penetrate the material. And do check the spot where the thumb meets the mitt, often, as this is a notorious spot for holes, due to fraying. Have extra-heavy, heat-resistant mitts for cooking outdoors.
Funnels: One standard-size funnel, preferably heatproof, is essential. A wide-mouth funnel is also very helpful when transferring dry and thick liquid mixtures to jars before storing foods. Use small funnels to fill pepper mills.
Garlic press: For pulverizing peeled garlic cloves. The self-cleaning type has a small pronged disk to push out any remaining garlic left from the holes. Although some cooks frown on using a garlic press, I find it particularly efficient to make a base for a garlic paste to season meat before roasting.
Grater (hand-held four-sided): For grating citrus zest, shredding or slicing cheese, potatoes and the like.
Ladles (stainless steel): Buy one small ladle for gravy and sauces and one standard-sized ladle for soups. A 2-cup ladle is also very handy for ladling large amounts of food, but isn’t essential.
Measuring cups (dry): One set with capacities of 1/8, 1/4, 1/3, 1/2, 1 and 2 cups. These spoutless cups are essential to obtaining an accurate dry measurement. I also have (and use often) a non-essential set that measures in-between amounts (1/3, 2/3, ¾ and 1 ½ cups).
Measuring cups (liquid): With capacities of 1, 2 and 4 cups. Although these are available in plastic, glass is preferable for withstanding hot liquids. Also, after the plastic ones have been washed several times they often crack, become cloudy or the measurement lines seem to disappear.
Measuring spoons: Although these sets come nested and attached by a piece of wire, they usually come apart after time and easily can be misplaced. I suggest having two sets for this reason. And I strongly recommend stainless steel instead of plastic.
Nutcracker: You need one, but consider buying extras for guests to use for cracking Dungeness crab or lobsters.
Peppermill: Quality and strength is vital. Go for function over looks, here. I recommend having two, one for black and one for white peppercorns.
Potato masher: The best potato masher is the old-fashioned type with a flat perforated disc that sits at the end of a long sturdy handle. The newer version has a squiggled bottom and is a suitable substitute.
Ruler (15-inch): Needed to measure the diameter of baking pans, and when cutting puff pastry dough into squares or rectangles of a specific size. Also helpful to cut straight strips out of a sheet of pasta, when hand-cutting lasagna noodles.
Salad spinner: The larger the better, for salads. Small ones are good for cleaning fresh herbs.
Scale: Since many cookbooks have recipes that call for a bulk measurement of meat or vegetables after trimming or flour after sifting, a kitchen scale will alleviate any guesswork when measuring. The most useful scale comes with a large bowl or ample tray and registers between six and ten pounds.
Skewers: Should be strong, unbendable and stainless steel. Perfect for roasting peppers over direct flame and for making savory or sweet kabobs. Have at least 6 long skewers, more if you entertain often using the grill. Wooden skewers, while good, are not reusable and must be soaked in water for about 15 minutes before using so they don’t incinerate.
Skimmers: This large, round and usually perforated spoonlike disc sits at the end of a long thin handle and is essential for skimming the foam off stock as it simmers. A fine-mesh skimmer is a nonessential but handy tool for skimming fat from simmering stock as well as straining clarifying butter.
Spatter shields: The spattering that occurs when searing chicken or meat pieces in hot oil can be quite dangerous. I suggest owning two of these circular wire mesh screens for use in a pot that’s larger than the shield (overlap them so they completely cover the top of the pot while browning). For protection while turning meat, rotate the handle so the side of the screen that’s farthest from you tilts up. Stick your turning spatula into the pot from behind. And if the handle of the screen is plastic, make sure it doesn’t touch the rim of the pot or it will melt.
Spatulas (metal): Thin stainless steel spatulas for turning food should be perforated to allow fat to drip through when removing fried or sautéed food from a skillet. Two spatulas are necessary to safely turn large pieces of food when panfrying—one underneath the food and the other on top. If you have a non-stick skillet, a non-abrasive turning spatula is essential, since the sharp edges of a stainless steel spatula can easily scratch and cut into the finish of some nonstick pans (even if they say it won’t happen, it does). Nice, but not necessary, is an extra-long perforated spatula for turning large fish fillets or butterflied trout when panfrying, to keep the fish from breaking apart.
Spatulas (rubber): Have an assortment of spatulas for different jobs. Whenever possible, purchase heatproof rubber spatulas with wooden handles (not plastic) since these are sturdier and more versatile. Spoon shaped spatulas called “spoonulas” are great when transferring batters to either a cake pan or a pastry bag. Be aware, however, these are not heatproof. Wooden spatulas have an inflexible flat edge that’s great for dislodging caramelized goodies on the bottom of a pan when deglazing, and also to force fruit purée through a fine-sieve.
Spatulas (standard metal): Needed to remove pancakes from a hot griddle, and other freshly cooked foods from a skillet.
Spoons (metal): You should have at least two large stainless steel spoons: a solid one for stirring and transferring ingredients, and a slotted spoon for transferring solids out of pans containing liquids.
Spoons (wooden): Since wood is warm in the hand and nonabrasive to the vast variety of interiors found in today’s pots and pans, these are invaluable and essential tools in the kitchen. Make sure you have at least one spoon with an extra-long handle to stir deep liquid mixtures like soup and stock. Wash wooden spoons by hand as they will splinter after several cycles in the dishwasher.
Storage containers: High on my list of essentials are heavy-duty freezer containers of various sizes with tight-fitting lids. You should also have an assortment of large and small airtight tins for storing certain cookies and other baked goods at room temperature. Also handy for tea bags, clipped coupons, receipts and such.
Strainers (or sieves): Three types are essential: a small wire strainer to strain egg glaze or fruit glaze before applying it to breads and certain pastries, and to strain fresh citrus juice before measuring; a large fine-mesh strainer to strain seeds out of fruit purées and to clarify homemade stock; and a large triple-mesh strainer with a sturdy handle to sift dry mixtures and to strain solids from liquids.
Thermometer (for meat, not instant): Make sure your meat thermometer has a large dial and registers as low as 120°F. Some thermometers start to register at 140° F, which is far too late for timing rare, medium-rare and even medium roast beef since the roast continues to cook after being removed from the oven. Purchase a thermometer that can withstand long exposure to heat. To use, insert the thermometer deeply into the thickest part of the meat without allowing the stem to touch bone. For rare meat, remove your roast just as the temperature is approaching 120°F; for medium rare, between 120°F and 125°F; and for medium, 125°F. Leave the thermometer in place and tent the roast loosely with aluminum foil for 10 to 20 minutes so the internal temperature can rise sufficiently and the juices can centralize before carving.
Thermometer (oven): It’s best to keep an eye on your oven temperature since ovens tend to become either overly hot or too slow over time. But for best results when cooking and baking, it’s not wise to compensate for an off oven by continually raising or lowering the temperature. As soon as you notice a problem, call a repair service and have the thermostat adjusted.
Timers: It’s best to own two timers (with a long-sounding ring) for occasions when you are timing more than one dish at the same time—and always make sure they both work!
Tongs (with and without teeth): Tongs without teeth are my favorite tool to use when turning pieces of meat as they brown, to serve things like asparagus and green beans, and to toss and serve cooked strand-pasta. Those with teeth, although not essential, are used to grab and remove freshly cooked ears of corn from boiling water. When choosing tongs without teeth, I recommend getting only those tongs that can lock in a closed position (which helps when storing them). And, if you use non-stick cookware, it’s wise to use tongs with non-abrasive tips.
Towels: Strong, non-fuzzy cotton kitchen towels are best and will take you through a multitude of uses. Buy more than you think you need, since after being washed many times, even the best towels need to be replaced. The more you have, the less each one is washed, so the longer they’ll last.
Twine: Use medium width, cotton butcher’s twine for trussing poultry, tying meats, securing bunches of asparagus before blanching and for securing a bouquet garni.
Vegetable peeler: Choose a sturdy one, preferably with a vertical swivel blade and a smooth, ergonomic grip. In addition to the most logical uses (peeling fruits and vegetables), use it to create long shaved ribbons from a wedge of parmesan cheese and also from a block of chocolate. When well made, this tool also works well when looking to retrieve wide or thin strips of the colored part of citrus skin.
Whisk (all-purpose): Although whisks come in many sizes to accomplish dif ferent procedures, the basic all-purpose whisk (called a “sauce whisk”) measures 8 to 14 inches in length. It’s the perfect whisk to combine and lighten dry mixtures as well as to make simple custards and complex sauces.
Fancy Footwork
Bean Frencher: Slices mature green beans lengthwise into thin strips. (This takes time and patience.)
Bibs (for seafood): Disposable lobster bibs provide comfort to guests when eating foods destined to be dipped in melted butter or those that are swimming in a robust red sauce. These are available in hardware stores.
Bowls (glass): Although I prefer stainless steel for its durability, glass is the perfect material to use to reheat foods in the microwave and then serve straight from the oven.
Bowl (unlined copper): For beating egg whites by hand. (Some electric mixers like KitchenAid have a copper insert bowl, which can be purchased separately.)
Brushes (feather): Soft feather brushes are used before baking to apply glaze gently to very delicate pastries that might be pierced or scratched by stiffer bristles. Also used for applying a fruit glaze to a tart before serving.
Caviar spoon: These smooth wood or mother-of-pearl spoons with a flat bowl are specifically made to scoop caviar without leaving the metallic taste left by a metal spoon.
Cheese grating device: Using a long metal rod with lots of slightly raised perforated edges (called a Microplane Zester) is my preferred tool for grating cheese at the table. I use a food processor, fitted with a steel blade, to grate hard and semi-soft cheese in larger batches.
Chimney starter (only if using a charcoal grill): This metal cylinder is the safest way to heat charcoal, when cooking on an outdoor grill.
Cocktail forks: Needed to retrieve every morsel from certain types of seafood and also to enjoy the delicacies like cooked beef or veal marrow.
Comb (decorating): This triangular or rectangular tool (usually in stainless steel or heavy-duty plastic) with one to four degrees of a zigzag edge, is used to decoratively comb the top of soft mixtures such as frostings, mashed potatoes, thick dips and savory spreads. Use a fork or a serrated knife as a substitute.
Crinkle slicer (hand-held, with a 7-inch long ruffled blade): Use this tool to make potato chips or carrot sticks with decorative ruffled sides.
Dental floss (plain, not flavored): To cut neat slices from a chilled log of chevre.
Food mill: This mechanical sieve—a survivor of the past—has a long crank-type handle on top. Just above the perforated bottom is a blade that rotates when the handle is cranked. As the blade turns, it will purée cooked foods and also separate the pulp from the skin and/or seeds. This device allows a soft mixture to retain a bit more texture than a food processor. This tool has no emulsifying capability.
Fork (wide blending or mashing): A large serving fork can be substituted. This wide fork with just four large prongs is used to mash bananas, avocados or gently combine a meatloaf mixture. It also helps to combine wet and dry ingredients with few strokes, reducing the risk of toughening a delicate mixture (especially helpful with biscuit dough if not using a food processor, and with muffin batter if not using a batter whisk).
Fruit wedge cutter: This cuts apples or pears into eight uniform wedges while removing the central core. Make sure it’s sturdy. This tool gets a lot of action in a home with young children and it’s perfect for making apple pies and applesauce.
Fry basket: This deep metal mesh basket with a long handle is used to hold foods within a pot of hot oil, when frying. Always let the basket stay steeped in the oil as it heats, which helps the temperature stay high once the food is added.
Gravy boat (with a small ladle): Make sure this is made of a material that can be heated, albeit gently, since for best heat retention, it’s best to warm your gravy boat before pouring in a hot sauce.
Grater (nutmeg): Once you smell and taste freshly grated nutmeg, you’ll think this tool should be on the “essentials” list.
Ice cream scoops: Buy several sizes of round scoops. Not only do these make perfectly shaped balls of ice cream, but they can be used to shape dumpling batter (like matzo balls) or to fill muffin cups, or a stuffed tomato with a salad. I highly recommend “cookie scoopers” to produce cookies of uniform size. Oval scoopers are also available.
Ignitor gun: A great tool to use to ignite a chimney starter filled with charcoal, to start a fire in a wood burning oven, to light the candles on your dining table, and to flambé a dish. Have more than one, since they poop out, eventually.
Melon ball scoop: This tool is ideal for making uniform rounds of fruit, for removing the seed cavity of pears and apples and also to make various types of hors d’oeuvres. Choose one with two scoops of different sizes on opposite ends of the stem.
Microwave turntable: If you use a microwave, and if your appliance doesn’t come with one, buying a wind-up turntable is helpful. It turns a dish of food continually during cooking. It is especially helpful for defrosting frozen foods.
Mortar and pestle: Commonly made of marble, used to grind seeds and spices to a powder or to make pesto by hand. The Japanese version of a mortar, called a suribachi, comes in several sizes made out of ceramic; it’s available at Japanese import stores. The Mexican version, made out of rough stone, is called a molcajete and is traditionally used to grind chilies and to make guacamole.
Pitter: Used to remove pits from cherries and ripe olives.
Potato “bird’s nest” maker: To make individual fried-potato baskets for housing another vegetable (like green peas) or perhaps your favorite dip.
Salad bowl (large wooden): Purchase one with a diameter of at least 16-inches, to accommodate a variety of large main dish salads.
Shaker-top jars: (with large holes): to generously apply homemade spice blends.
Spatulas (metal with an elbow-bend): Having two long, wide and perforated turning spatulas are the perfect tool to safely turn large breaded fish fillets or cutlets, when pan-frying and for removing baked breads from the oven. Long, thin metal icing spatulas are preferred for spreading frostings on tall cakes and smaller ones are great for lavishing cupcakes. Short ones with an elbow bend are good for spreading batters in a narrow pan.
Spatula (wooden): The flat, nonabrasive edge on this tool makes it perfect for scraping up caramelized bits of meat or vegetables when deglazing a skillet as well as for helping to force the pulp out of a fine-mesh sieve when straining pureed berries. Wash by hand as you would a wooden spoon.
Spider: A large wide-mesh wire disc that sits at the end of a long wooden handle, is use to retrieve fried foods from hot oil.
Strawberry huller: This small inexpensive tool resembles an oversized tweezer. It is used to remove the white, firm and tasteless hull (core) from a fresh strawberry. Some are flimsier than others; only purchase one that’s made of strong stainless steel.
Sugar shaker: I recommend a small aluminum or stainless steel shaker with a lid that has a wire mesh insert instead of larger holes. This gives a very delicate application of powdered sugar on pastries just before serving. If unavailable, use a small triple-mesh wire sieve.
Thermometer (deep-fat): This is essential to certain cooking procedures (making candy and some types of syrup as well as deep-frying) and should be cared for properly in order to keep it in reliable working order. Make sure that you don’t store this thermometer where things can clang around on top of the delicate glass stem. It’s best to store it alone on a shelf, in an “out of traffic” cupboard wrapped in a cushioned type of paper towel.
Thermometer (for meat, instant): Although some cooks swear by this tool, the thought of continually poking holes in my roast during cooking to check the internal temperature really bothers me. I never do it because when you remove the stem of the thermometer, valuable flavor-packed juices pour out and ultimately the doneness of the roast is inconsistent. However, this thermometer is helpful to quickly gauge the temperature of stuffing that’s baking inside poultry since it must reach 160°F before being consumed. Purchase one with a skinny stem and a large dial that registers from 100° F to 200° F.
Tomato shark: This tool is used to scoop out the stem end of a tomato. It has a thin short stainless steel handle and a round, concave bowl with spiked tips.
Turning slicer: Use this hand-operated tool to make “spaghettied” zucchini and other vegetables.
Trussing needle: This long needle with a large hole is used to sew up the cavity of a turkey. Regardless of whether or not I stuff my turkey, I usually truss the bird to maintain the best appearance through roasting; trussing also makes it easier to turn the bird during roasting.
Whisk (balloon whip): Primarily used to whip egg whites or heavy cream manually, this whisk forms an oversized bulb shape at the top allowing each stroke to incorporate more air into a given mixture.
Whisk (batter): A thin piece of coil, wound into an irregular circular shape, sits at the end of a long tapered wooden handle. This silly-looking stirring device does allow you to mix delicate mixtures more thoroughly without increasing the risk of toughening your batter.
Wooden board (for rolling pasta): Large unfinished rectangular wooden board (at least 3 1/2 feet long by 2 feet wide) for kneading and rolling pasta. This board can also be used to knead and shaping a yeast dough.
Wooden bread baskets (for shaping artisan loaves): Round, wide, oblong or baguette shaped, I love these baskets, whether coiled or cloth-lined, and I use them to make crusty ethnic breads. Flour is liberally and evenly rubbed into the interior of the basket and the raw shaped dough rises inside.
Wrappers (foil/decorative): Available at candy and cake making shops, these vibrantly colored square foil papers come in a variety of sizes and are used to individually wrap chocolate candies.
Zester: The best zester, used to retrieve the colored part only of citrus fruits and also to grate hard cheese, is called a Microplane zester. This is a long stainless steel rod that has many tiny grooves and an ergonomic handle.
