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Lauren’s Recipe Index

Hearty with Ham, Double Split Pea Soup

Here’s a perfect way to use leftover baked ham. This soup is incredibly substantial and richly flavored. Served with a salad and a bowl of Crispy Garlic Croutons, or a basket of hot Baking Powder Biscuits, it makes a robust lunch or Sunday supper.

Although this recipe can easily be halved, I purposely made it large because this soup freezes so well. The correct consistency of pea soup is strictly personal. I’ve seen pea soup made so thick that it almost needed a fork! I prefer a soup of medium thickness to allow the additional whole green peas, diagonally sliced carrots and chunks of smoked ham to float about on my spoon. But feel free to “fork it up,” if you must!

Any time I’ve suggested a tool, a piece of equipment, or a culinary term that’s unfamiliar to you, you can go to Kitchen Management for more information.

Special Equipment:

  • 12- to 16-quart heavy-bottomed stockpot or Dutch oven with tight-fitting lid
  • 2-cup ladle
  • Two 8-quart bowls
  • Food processor, heavy-duty blender or a hand-held immersion blender (also called a “stick blender”)

For the soup:

  • 7 quarts (28 cups) rich Chicken Stock
  • 2 pounds dried green split peas, rinsed and
    drained
  • 1 pound dried yellow split peas, rinsed and
    drained
  • Meaty ham bone (shank) or 1 or 2 ham hocks, thoroughly scrubbed and rinsed
  • 12 carrots, peeled
  • Salt as needed
  • 1 stick (1/4 pound) butter
  • 2 large yellow onions, chopped
  • 1 1/2 cups trimmed, cleaned and thinly sliced leeks
  • 4 large cloves garlic, chopped
  • 2 stalks celery, sliced
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons crumbled dried thyme
  • 1 teaspoon crumbled dried oregano
  • Freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • 4 cups diced smoked ham
  • 1 pound frozen peas, thawed
  • Suggested accompaniment: Crispy Garlic Croutons or Baking Powder Biscuit

1) To simmer the split peas: In a 12- to 16-quart heavy-bottomed stockpot, bring chicken stock to a simmer, stir in green and yellow split peas and add ham bone or hocks. Bring back to a simmer, cover pot and cook over low heat for 1 hour.
Note: If using smoked ham hocks, blanch twice, uncovered, in two separate batches of boiling water, for 2 minutes each. Drain and proceed.

2) To prepare the carrots: Cut 8 of the carrots into irregular 1/3-inch slices and slice the remaining 4 carrots diagonally and keep separate. In a medium-sized saucepan, bring 2 quarts water to a boil and place a large bowl of ice water on your counter. Add a little salt and the 4 diagonally sliced carrots and boil until crisp tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Drain carrots and immediately refresh them in the bowl of ice water, swishing them around with your hand until cold. Drain slices well and set aside.

3) To sweat the vegetables: Melt butter in a 10- to 12-inch deep-sided skillet. Tear off a piece of waxed paper large enough to cover the interior of the skillet and brush some of the butter on 1 side of the waxed paper. When butter is bubbling, stir in the onions, leeks, garlic, celery and the 8 sliced carrots into the skillet, coating vegetables well with butter. Add the thyme and oregano and place the greased side of the waxed paper directly on top of the vegetables. Sweat the vegetables over very low heat, occasionally lifting the waxed paper to stir and redistribute them, for 15 to 20 minutes.

4) To finish cooking the soup base: After the split peas have simmered for 1 hour, add the sweated vegetables to the stockpot and cover the pot securely. Simmer the vegetables, over low heat, for 1 hour more. Remove from heat and remove the ham bone or hocks from pot to become cool enough to handle.

5) To strain and puree the soup: Ladle the soup, in batches, into a large medium-mesh wire strainer set within an 8-quart bowl. As the strainer becomes full, place the solids into the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade or a blender (see the safety tip at the end of this recipe). Puree each batch of solids with a little of the stock until smooth, then transfer the pureed mixture to another 8-quart bowl. You will have finally 1 large bowl of stock and 1 large bowl of pureed vegetables. (Alternatively, keep the entire soup mixture in the original pot but remove 2 cups of the liquid. Use a hand-held immersion blender to puree all the solids and, when perfectly smooth, add as much of the reserved liquid as needed to reach the desired consistency.)

6) To assemble the finished soup: Pour the vegetable puree into empty stockpot and add enough stock to create the desired consistency. Remove any meat from the cooked ham bone or hocks; discard the bone. Add to soup salt to taste and lots of freshly ground pepper along with diced ham (see note), thawed peas and reserved blanched carrots. Cool uncovered to allow any grease to rise to the top; discard the grease. Place the amount that you will be serving in a smaller pot; divide the rest among labeled heavy-duty freezer containers and place in the freezer.
Note: If using ham steaks, heat a large skillet over high heat with a couple of tablespoons of butter (full or Clarified). When the fat is melted and hot, add one ham steak and sear it in the pan, over high heat, until hot and turning golden on both sides, turning once. Place on a plate, carefully wipe out the skillet and do this same procedure with the remaining ham steak. When cool, cut each steal into dice.

7) To serve: Cover and reheat soup gently over low heat, stirring occasionally, until piping hot. Ladle into warmed, hefty wide soup mugs or deep bowls.Timing is Everything:

  • All the vegetables can be prepared and ready to cook 1 day ahead. Store them in the refrigerator in separate, well-covered bowls.
  • The stock can, and should, be made way ahead and stored in the freezer.
  • In addition to freezing, this soup may be fully assembled up to 2 days ahead and kept refrigerated well covered. If refrigerating the soup in a pot, pull a clean kitchen towel tightly across the top of the uncovered pot and then apply the lid. The towel will prevent any accumulated condensation from the interior of the lid from falling into the soup and diluting the flavor.

Reduced-Fat Variation

Although the flavor of this soup will be richest when using butter, to reduce the overall amount of saturated fat, omit butter and sweat vegetables in 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil and 1/4 cup additional chicken stock. Alternatively, use half butter and half olive oil.

Safety Tip on Pureeing Hot Mixtures

When pureeing hot mixtures (especially in the blender), never fill the container more than half full or you run the risk of causing an explosive reaction when you turn on the motor. The heat creates a buildup of pressure in the container, causing the food to shoot up and over the top when blending. This can cause serious burns–not to mention the fact that you’ll be cleaning pea soup off your walls and ceiling for the next week!


SHOPPING LIST
At-a-Glance Reminder of IngredientsFor the soup :

  • 7 quarts (28 cups) rich Chicken Stock or low-sodium canned or boxed chicken broth
  • 2 pounds dried green split peas, rinsed and
    drained
  • 1 pound dried yellow split peas, rinsed and
    drained
  • Meaty ham bone (shank) or 1 or 2 ham hocks, thoroughly scrubbed and rinsed
  • 12 carrots, peeled
  • Salt as needed
  • 1 stick (1/4 pound) butter
  • 2 large yellow onions, chopped
  • 1 1/2 cups trimmed, cleaned and thinly sliced leeks
  • 4 large cloves garlic, chopped
  • 2 stalks celery, sliced
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons crumbled dried thyme
  • 1 teaspoon crumbled dried oregano
  • Freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • 4 cups diced smoked ham
  • 1 pound frozen peas, thawed
  • Suggested accompaniment: Crispy Garlic Croutons or Baking Powder Biscuits

From the supermarket shelf :

  • Canned or boxed chicken broth, only if not using homemade
  • 2 pounds dried green split peas, rinsed and drained
  • 1 pound dried yellow split peas, rinsed and drained

From the produce aisle :

  • Carrots
  • Yellow onions
  • Garlic
  • Celery
  • Leeks

From the butcher and/or the deli department:

  • Meaty ham bone or 2 smoked ham hocks
  • 2 large ham steaks or smoked ham, sliced ¾ inch thick, for dicing

From the spice case:

  • Dried thyme
  • Dried oregano

From the dairy case:

  • Butter

From the frozen food section:

  • Frozen peas

For suggested accompaniments: See specific recipes.

Comments (0)

Chicken Fingers with Three Different (Great Tasting) Dips

Ok, if you’re having trouble weaning your kids away from the neighborhood fast-food joint, or if you’d simply like to offer a delish-dish to the kids that will help them to sit happily at the table, then this recipe for long, crisp, savory chicken fingers is definitely for you! And, just to make things extra exciting (for all of you), I’ve provided three different dipping sauces. Also, don’t hesitate to serve these, with cocktails, before a casual dinner, when entertaining. The following recipes illustrate perfectly how easy it is to make a homemade dinner that’s truly memorable, and so simple!

Any time I’ve suggested a tool, a piece of equipment, or a culinary term that’s unfamiliar to you, you can go to Kitchen Management for more information.

Special Equipment

For the chicken fingers:

  • 4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, halved (about 2 pounds)
  • 1 1/3 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour (only if using the pan-frying method)
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • 2 1/2 cups dried breadcrumbs (preferably The Best Dried Breadcrumbs)
  • 1 cup freshly grated best-quality Parmesan cheese (optional but highly
  • suggested: alternatively, use 1 more cup dried breadcrumbs)
  • 4 extra-large eggs, beaten with a fork
  • Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed, for pan-frying
  • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and flattened
  • 2 tablespoons butter, or more as needed (you’ll need between 1/2 and 1 stick of melted butter if making the oven-roasted version)

1) To slice the chicken breasts: Rinse and dry each chicken breast half and pull the tenderloin off, keeping it intact. Slice each breast half, lengthwise into 1-inch thick strips (you’ll get between two and three slices per each breast half, not including the tenderloin).

2) To set up to bread the chicken: Place flour on a plate and season lightly with salt and pepper. Combine bread crumbs with Parmesan cheese, if using, on a shallow baking sheet. In a bowl, beat the eggs with a fork and place the bowl in between the flour and crumbs. Line a large shallow baking sheet with wax paper and place this next to the crumbs. (If making the oven-roasted version, omit the flour and just set up the beaten eggs and crumbs.)

3) To bread the chicken strips and chill: Sprinkle prepared chicken strips lightly with salt and pepper. Dredge about 6 chicken strips in the seasoned flour, coating them well, and then shake off the excess. Dip floured chicken into beaten eggs to coat thoroughly. (If using the oven-roasted method, dip the seasoned strips of chicken directly into the egg (no flour) and then proceed.) Working with 1 egg-coated chicken strip at a time, lay it on top of the crumb mixture and turn to coat each side, pressing gently to help the crumbs adhere. Lay the heavily breaded chicken strip on the wax paper lined baking sheet. Continue with the rest of the floured chicken strips, then rinse and dry your hands and flour, dip and coat the remaining strips, as directed. Whether pan-frying or oven-roasting, cover the sheet with plastic wrap and chill for 2 to 24 hours.

4) To pan-fry the chicken fingers: Arrange a long double thickness of paper toweling on your kitchen counter, as close to the stove as safely possible. Heat a 12 to 14-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and, when hot, add enough olive oil to generously coat the bottom of the pan.
When the oil is hot, but not smoking, add the flattened garlic cloves and let them become light golden brown, frequently pressing on them to flavor the oil. Remove the garlic with a slotted utensil and add 2 tablespoons butter to the pan, stirring, to disperse it evenly throughout the oil. When the butter is bubbling, but not at all brown, fry several breaded chicken strips at time, in a single layer, without overly crowding the pan. Fry the chicken until golden brown and crisp on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. (Use a turning spatula occasionally to press gently on the top of each strip to encourage even browning.) When cooked through, drain each chicken finger on paper towels and place them on a hot serving tray. Continue frying the rest. If while frying, the butter ever becomes overly dark from an accumulation of crumbs on the bottom of the pan, dump out the oil and wipe out the skillet. Heat more oil and melt more butter before frying the next batch.

5) To oven-roast the chicken fingers: Set up the paper towels, as described for pan-frying. About 30 minutes before you plan to cook, preheat the oven to 425°F with the rack in the center. Place the breaded chicken fingers in a single layer on a large shallow baking sheet, that’s lined with aluminum foil. (You might need two pans. If so, and not using a double oven, position the racks on the upper and lower third shelves.) Melt 1 stick of butter in a small saucepan and, when hot, add the flattened garlic. Let the garlic cook gently in the hot butter, just until it gets light golden (pressing on it, as described previously). Remove the garlic. One at a time, lightly dip both sides of the strips in the flavored butter and place onto the prepared sheet. (You might not need all the butter.) Roast the chicken strips at 425°F for 15 minutes. Turn each strip over and roast for another 15 minutes or until crisp and no longer pink on the inside. Drain on the paper towels.

6) To serve: Serve the chicken fingers hot or warm, either on a warmed serving platter or stand them up in a short drinking glass, lined with some parchment paper. (The pan-fried version will be able to stand more erect than the oven-roasted ones.) Pass the dip(s), at the table.

Timing is Everything:

  • The chicken can be breaded a day ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator.
  • You can fry the chicken fingers an hour or two ahead and reheat them on a wire rack set within a shallow baking sheet, at 375°F for 5 to 10 minutes.
  • All three dipping sauces can be made up to two days ahead and kept refrigerated, well covered.

Kid-Friendly Honey-Mustard Dip: Mix 1 scant cup mayonnaise with 2 rounded tablespoons of honey “Dijon” mustard. Chill. (This can be made 2 days ahead.)

Lemon-Garlic Scampi Dip: Combine 1 cup mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice, 2 cloves minced garlic, 2 tablespoons minced scallions, 1 generous tablespoon of chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley, 1/4 rounded teaspoon cayenne pepper. (This can be made 2 days ahead.)

Homemade Duck Sauce: In a small nonreactive saucepan, whisk together 1 cup peach or apricot preserves (or mix both) with 4 tablespoons, plus 1 1/2 teaspoons distilled white vinegar, 2 tablespoons minced peeled ginger root, 2 tablespoons minced scallions, 1 tablespoon soy sauce (preferably Tamari), 1 teaspoon garlic powder and 2 tablespoons water. Heat and simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes, then stir in 1 generous teaspoon toasted sesame oil. Pulse in the food processor until any big pieces of fruit are made smaller, allowing the sauce to retain texture. Pour into a bowl and let cool. Chill to allow the sauce to thicken. Bring close to room temperature before serving. This can be made 2 days ahead and leftovers are good for a few more days (5 days total).

SHOPPING LIST

At-a-Glance Reminder of Ingredients

For the chicken fingers:

  • 4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, halved (about 2 pounds)
  • 1 1/3 cups unbleached, all-purpose flour (only if using the pan-frying method)
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • 2 1/2 cups dried breadcrumbs (preferably The Best Dried Breadcrumbs)
  • 1 cup freshly grated best-quality Parmesan cheese (optional but highly suggested: alternatively, use 1 more cup dried breadcrumbs)
  • 4 extra-large eggs, beaten with a fork
  • Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed, for pan-frying
  • 2 cloves garlic, peeled and flattened
  • 2 tablespoons butter, or more as needed (you’ll need between 1/2 and 1 stick of melted butter if making the oven-roasted version)

For the honey-mustard dip:

  • 1 cup prepared mayonnaise
  • 2 tablespoons honey Dijon mustard

For the lemon-garlic scampi dip:

  • 1 cup prepared mayonnaise
  • 2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 tablespoons minced scallions
  • 1 generous tablespoon minced flat-leaf, Italian parsley
  • ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

For homemade duck sauce:

  • 1 cup peach or apricot preserves (or combine both)
  • 4 tablespoons, plus 1 ½ teaspoons distilled white vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons peeled, minced ginger
  • 2 tablespoons minced scallions
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce (preferably Tamari)
  • 1 teaspoon garlic powder
  • 2 tablespoons water
  • 1 generous teaspoon toasted sesame oil

From the butcher:

  • 4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts, halved (8 pieces; about 2 pounds)

From the supermarket shelf:

  • Unbleached, all-purpose flour
  • Dried breadcrumbs (only if not making your own)
  • Extra-virgin olive oil
  • Peach or apricot preserves (or both)
  • Soy sauce (preferably Tamari)
  • Mayonnaise (only if making the honey-mustard dip and the scampi dip)
  • Distilled white vinegar (only if making the duck sauce)
  • Toasted sesame oil (only if making duck sauce)

From the produce aisle:

  • Garlic
  • Scallions (only if making the scampi dip and the duck sauce)
  • Parsley (only if making the lemon-garlic scampi dip)
  • Lemon (only if making lemon-garlic scampi dip)
  • Fresh ginger root (only if making duck sauce)

From the spice section:

  • Garlic powder
  • Cayenne pepper (only if making the lemon-garlic scampi dip)

From the refrigerated section:

  • Extra-large eggs

From the dairy case:

  • Wedge of best-quality Parmesan cheese
  • Unsalted butter

Comments (0)

Baking Powder Biscuits

Unlike yeast dough, which requires tough and persistent kneading by the cook, hands that touch biscuit dough have to be much gentler. For the tenderest biscuits, each kneading movement must be lighthearted and superficial, with the goal of just making the dough cohesive enough to be rolled (or patted) out. Homemade biscuits are usually a bit irregularly shaped after baking. Resist the temptation to work the dough aggressively, in the hopes of making the dough smooth. Most people would take a lopsided biscuit over a tough one any day. Whether sitting next to a mound of hot scrambled eggs at breakfast, or sharing the spotlight with a succulent roast chicken at dinner, these biscuits quickly become a family tradition, and one that always instills a wonderful sense of comfort and warmth.

Any time I’ve suggested a tool, a piece of equipment, or a culinary term that’s unfamiliar to you, you can go to Kitchen Management for more information.

For the biscuits:

  • 2 cups prepared Baking Powder Biscuit Mix (or see below for single recipe)
  • 3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small dice
  • About 1 1/3 cups heavy cream
  • Additional all-purpose flour, as needed, for dusting
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, to glaze biscuits
  • Softened butter and/or jam, for serving

1. To set up: Line a thin, flat cookie sheet with ungreased parchment paper and preheat the oven to 400°F.

2. To assemble the dough: Place the biscuit mix into either a large mixing bowl or in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Add the cubed butter and, if not using a machine, cut the butter into the dry mix, using a hand-held pastry cutter or your fingertips. If using a food processor, pulse the diced butter with the dry mix. Either way, blend until the mixture looks like coarse meal. Pour 1 1/4 cups of the heavy cream into the bowl of dry ingredients.

If working with a food processor: add the cream to the work bowl and give it several quick pulses, just until the dry mix is thoroughly moistened and able to be turned out and handled.

If making biscuits by hand: Use a wide blending fork to, gently but thoroughly combine the wet and dry ingredients without overworking the mixture. As some of the flour becomes moistened by the cream, push that section of the dough to one side of the bowl and continue, until the dough resembles a moist, shapeless mass. (If dough seems too dry, add the remaining tablespoon or so of cream.)

3. To cut biscuits: Turn the mass out onto a lightly floured surface and knead it very gently, about 8 or 9 times, until it holds together (see the introduction of this recipe for more information.) Using a wooden rolling pin or a lightly floured hand, roll or pat the dough out to a thickness of about 1 1/2-inches. Using a floured 2-inch biscuit cutter, cut out as many rounds as possible, using a “straight down, up and out” motion. Lay the rounds on the prepared baking sheet and gather the scraps so you can gently knead them just to smooth the surface. Pat or roll the dough out again and cut out more rounds.

4. To bake: Brush the tops of the biscuits with melted butter and place the sheet into the center of the preheated oven until they have risen high and turn light golden brown, 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve hot, with softened butter and/or jam.

5. If you don’t have the pre-assembled Baking Powder Biscuit Mix:

For each batch of biscuits:

  • Mix 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour with
  • 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 tablespoons sugar
  • 3/4 teaspoon salt
  • Whisk well and follow the rest of the recipe

Timing is Everything The unbaked biscuits can be prepared 24 hours ahead and refrigerated, covered well with plastic wrap. For best texture, bring the chilled dough close to room temperature before brushing with butter and baking.

SHOPPING LIST

At-a-Glance Reminder of Ingredients

For the mix:

  • 14 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons salt
  • 1/2 cup plus 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

For the biscuits:

  • 2 cups prepared Baking Powder Biscuit Mix (or see below for single recipe)
  • 3 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small dice
  • About 1 1/3 cups heavy cream
  • Additional all-purpose flour, as needed, for dusting
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, to glaze biscuits
  • Softened butter and/or jam, for serving

From the supermarket shelf:

  • 1 10-pound bag, plus 1 5-pound bag unbleached, all-purpose flour
  • Granulated sugar
  • Fine table salt
  • Baking powder
  • Jam (for serving)

From the dairy case:

  • Unsalted butter
  • Heavy cream

Comments (0)

Homemade Sweet Cream Butter

The only reason I attached one muscle to this recipe (considering all you really need is a good finger to turn on the food processor), is because you will need to really squeeze the butter, wrapped in a kitchen towel, to remove any excess liquid. This butter will, I trust, make you and yours very (very) happy… Enjoy. Oh, and to see a preview of me making fresh butter, click here.

Special Equipment:

Food processor or heavy-duty blender or mixer
Fine-mesh wire strainer
Decorating comb (optional)

Ingredients:

  • 2 cups heavy cream (not ultra-pasteurized)
  • 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon salt

1. To prepare butter: Place cream and salt into the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade (or use a blender or heavy mixer). Whip cream until the pure butterfat separates from the milky whey, 4 to 7 minutes (this will take longer if not using a food processor). It’s finished when the mixture sounds very slushy as the liquid splashes against the sides of the bowl. When you stop the machine, the butter will be a separate mass surrounded by a shallow pool of milky liquid. Pour this mixture into a fine-mesh strainer and shake until most of the liquid has drained out. Fold a clean, strong cotton or linen kitchen towel in half and dump the butter onto the center. Gather the ends of the towel and firmly squeeze to remove any excess buttermilk.

2. To store: Transfer butter to an attractive 1-cup crock or ramekin and, using the towel, pat off any remaining beads of liquid. Brush the top with a decorative comb or the tines of a fork and, if desired, sprinkle the top lightly with Kosher or sea salt. Either use the butter immediately or cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. For best consistency, always bring butter close to room temperature before serving as a spread.

Variation :
Transfer the finished butter into the cleaned and dried bowl of the food processor; add a few tablespoons of your favorite preserves, process until smooth and spread on fresh biscuits or plain toast. Or, add to the butter a combination of chopped fresh or crumbled dried herbs, minced garlic, minced green onion, strained fresh lemon juice and chopped drained capers; serve on top of broiled fresh fish, grilled steak or chicken.

General Rule: When using best quality aromatic dried herbs, they are about three times as potent as fresh. Use 1 teaspoon of a fragrant dried and crumbled herb to 1 rounded tablespoon minced fresh.

SHOPPING LIST

At-a-Glance Reminder of Ingredients

  • 2 cups heavy cream (not ultra-pasteurized)
  • 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon salt
  • Kosher or sea salt (optional)

From the supermarket shelf:

  • Fine table salt
  • Kosher or sea salt (optional)

From the dairy case:

  • Heavy cream

Comments (0)

Homemade “Instant” Hot Cocoa Mix

Have you ever met a kid who didn’t welcome a hefty mug of rich hot cocoa on a chilly morning or after a day in the snow? For those of you that wonder what “real” difference it makes to use a homemade mix instead of a store-bought one, I urge you to try this recipe.

When you choose to use a bit of down time to make this dry concoction, in bulk, the benefits are not just limited to enhanced taste. For me, the biggest benefit has always been the nurturing “take away” as a parent, which is far greater than when tearing open a packet of those commercially prepared mixes (complete with dehydrated marshmallows, resembling space-rocks). So, if you have children or neighbors who have children, now’s the time to whisk, sift and store this terrific cocoa mix and make sure to stop and take notice at how different it feels, when you hear those wonderful words “This is so delicious!” Also, if you have friends who go skiing often, this cocoa mix makes a fabulous gift.

Any time I’ve suggested a tool, a piece of equipment, or a culinary term that’s unfamiliar to you, you can go to Kitchen Management for more information.

Special Equipment:

  • Large triple-mesh wire sieve (not a fine-mesh sieve)
  • 5-quart canister, preferably airtight

For the Cocoa Mix:

  • 3 cups Dutch-processed unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 4 1/2 cups superfine sugar
  • 6 1/2 cups dry nonfat milk
  • 1/3 teaspoon salt
  • 1 to 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon (optional)

For One Mug of Hot Cocoa:

  • 1/3 cup Mom’s Hot Cocoa Mix (use a bit more or less, depending on your desire for richness)
  • 1 ½ cups boiling water or very hot milk, half and half or cream, or use a combination
  • 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Suggested Garnishes :

  • Cinnamon sticks, for stirring
  • Whipped cream (or pulverize a few hard peppermint candies and fold them into whipped cream with a bit of pink food coloring and then sprinkle the top with some more peppermint candy that’s been cracked into coarser pieces.)
  • OR Big Marshmallows OR Shaved bittersweet or semisweet chocolate ((use a vegetable peeler) mini chocolate chips and a few mini marshmallows1) To assemble the mix: Whisk together all of the dry ingredients in a 6-quart bowl. Sift mixture through a large triple-mesh sieve into another bowl and then sift back into the original bowl. Store in an airtight 4- to 5-quart canister.2) To make a mug of hot cocoa: Place 1/3 cup of the dry mix into a mug. (Use less mix for a smaller cup.) Fill the mug with boiling water, milk, half and half or cream (or use a combination). Add vanilla and stir well, with a cinnamon stick, if using. Top with any of the suggested garnishes. If serving to young children, you might want to stir in a bit of cold milk just to take some of the heat off.Note: To shave chocolate, if using, run a regular vegetable peeler across a block of firm bittersweet or semisweet chocolate. Depending on the width of the chocolate you’re shaving, you will either get long curls or a fine dusting. Both are delicious. Store any extras in an airtight container.

SHOPPING LIST

At-a-Glance Reminder of Ingredients

  • For the Cocoa Mix:
  • 3 cups Dutch-processed unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 4 1/2 cups superfine sugar
  • 6 1/2 cups dry nonfat milk
  • 1/3 teaspoon salt
  • 1 to 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon (optional)

For One Mug of Hot Cocoa:

  • 1/3 cup Mom’s Hot Cocoa Mix (use a bit more or less, depending on your desire for richness)
  • 1 ½ cups boiling water or very hot milk, half and half or cream, or use a combination
  • 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Suggested Garnishes:

  • Cinnamon sticks, for stirring
  • Whipped cream (or pulverize a few hard peppermint candies and fold them into whipped cream with a bit of pink food coloring and then sprinkle the top with some more peppermint candy that’s been cracked into coarser pieces.)
  • OR Big Marshmallows OR Shaved bittersweet, semisweet or milk chocolate (use a vegetable peeler) mini chocolate chips and a few mini marshmallows

From the supermarket shelf:

  • Dutch-processed, unsweetened cocoa powder
  • Superfine sugar
  • Nonfat dry milk
  • Marshmallows (optional)
  • Peppermint candies (optional)
  • Chocolate for shaving (optional)

From the spice section:

  • Ground cinnamon (optional)
  • Cinnamon sticks (optional)
  • Vanilla

From the dairy case:

  • Milk, half and half or heavy cream (all optional)

Comments (0)

White Bean and Garlic Dip

No, I’m not crazy for listing ten cloves of garlic in this smooth, silky and oh-so-savory bean dip. When you cook garlic very slowly in hot olive oil, the flavor becomes much milder than when eaten raw. Of course, if you want to use less garlic, you certainly can–that’s one of the benefits of home cooking–it’s personalized! When covered securely, this dip stays great sitting in the fridge for a few days, so it’s a dip that can take care of you and your guests all through the weekend. Wide strips of sweet red bell peppers and endive, standing decoratively in separate pretty dishes or stemmed glasses, make colorful (and nutritious!) accompaniments.

For something crisp and wonderful to use as a scoop, try some delicious Savory Garlic Pita Chips, which also can be made well ahead. Any time I’ve suggested a tool, a piece of equipment, or a culinary term that’s unfamiliar to you, you can go to Kitchen Management for more information.

Special Equipment

  • Food processor

For the bean dip :

  • 3 generous tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 can (19 ounces) can, plus one can (9 or 10 ounces) white cannelini beans, drained
  • 10 medium cloves garlic, minced
  • ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional, but highly suggested)
  • 2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme leaves
  • 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley
  • 2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice
  • Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Conventional Cooking

1) To assemble the dip:Heat a 10-inch skillet over medium heat and, when warm, add the olive oil. Add the minced garlic and reduce the heat to low. Sauté very gently, until tender but barely colored, 5 to 8 minutes, occasionally stirring with a flat edge spatula to redistribute. Stir in the thyme, parsley and red pepper flakes (if using), and let heat for a few seconds, just to release the herb’s flavor. Drag the pan to a cool burner. Pour the drained beans into the food processor, fitted with the steel blade. Add the sautéed garlic and any surrounding olive oil and the lemon juice. Purée until smooth. Add salt and black pepper to taste (mixture should be well seasoned).

2) To store and serve: Scrape the bean dip into a crock and chill, well covered, until 30 minutes before serving. Serve with fresh vegetables and Savory Garlic Pita Chips.

Timing is Everything

  • The bean dip can be made 2 days ahead and kept refrigerated, well covered.
SHOPPING LIST

At-a-Glance Reminder of Ingredients

  • 3 generous tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 can (19 ounces) can, plus one can (9 or 10 ounces) white cannelini beans, drained
  • 10 medium cloves garlic, minced
  • ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional, but highly suggested)
  • 2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme leaves
  • 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley
  • 2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice
  • Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

From the supermarket shelf:

  • Extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 can (19 ounces), plus 1 can (9 or 10 ounces) white cannelini beans

From the spice section:

  • Black pepper (preferably whole, to grind at home)
  • Kosher or sea salt
  • Crushed red pepper flakes

From the produce section:

  • 3 heads garlic
  • 1 bunch fresh thyme
  • 1 bunch fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley
  • 1 juicy lemon

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Lamb Pot Pies

Whenever I serve these piping hot pot pies to my family, everyone at the table is initially so quiet– since we’re all so busy plowing through the crisp pastry, uncovering all sorts of savory goodies inside. Usually, it’s not until we reach the half-way mark in our individual dishes, that we come up for air and chat as normal. If you’re in the mood for beef or veal instead of lamb, just substitute an equal amount of cubed chuck or veal shoulder and use all beef or veal stock, in the sauce. And, speaking of stock, although it’s OK to use store-bought puff pastry on top, please use homemade stock in the sauce, since it really will help make these pot pies better than all others. Any time I’ve suggested a tool, a piece of equipment, or a culinary term that’s unfamiliar to you, you can go to Kitchen Management for more information.

Special Equipment

  • 6 individual, oven-proof crocks (each with a generous 2- cup capacity)
  • Large round (plain or fluted) pastry cutter; although I call for a 6-inch cutter in the recipe, the ultimate size will depend on the size of the individual crocks. You’ll need to cut pastry out to exceed the top (all the way around) by 1 inch (You can also simply cut out a 6-inch parchment template and use the tip of a sharp knife to trace and cut out pastry rounds)

Ingredients for the pot pies:

  • 3 1/2 to 4 pounds lamb stew meat (from the shoulder or neck), cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes
  • 2 cups dry red wine
  • 1 yellow onion, cut into wedges
  • Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • Pure olive oil, as needed, for browning the lamb
  • 8 cups lamb stock (simmer browned lamb bones in chicken stock, strain and defat) or combine beef with chicken stock
  • 1 pound new potatoes (about 2 large), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
  • 4 carrots, peeled and diagonally sliced 1/2-inch thick
  • 8 ounces fresh pearl onions (or use frozen pearl onions, thawed)
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 10 ounces button mushrooms, wiped clean and sliced 1/4-inch thick
  • 1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
  • 2 cups (packed) cleaned, thinly sliced, leeks (use the white and light green)
  • 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme (or 1 1/2 teaspoons crumbled dried thyme)
  • 1/4 cup thick creme fraiche or heavy cream
  • 1 generous cup frozen peas, thawed
  • 1 1/2 cups whole cherry tomatoes, stems removed
  • 1 pound frozen store-bought puff pastry, thawed
  • Glaze: 1 egg, mixed with 1 teaspoon water and strained
  • Sesame seeds, for sprinkling (optional)

1) To marinate the lamb: Place the meat into a large nonreactive dish and pour in the red wine. Scatter the onion wedges over the top, separating them into strips. Use your hands to help coat the meat with the wine and to disperse the onions. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 4 to 24 hours, occasionally stirring to redistribute.

2) To brown the lamb: First place a medium-mesh sieve over a mixing bowl. Pick the meat out of the wine and drain the pieces on a large doubled sheet of paper towels. Pat meat dry, then sprinkle the pieces with salt and black pepper. Pour the wine through the sieve and discard the onions. Reserveall of the wine. Heat a heavy-bottomed, deep-sided 12-inch skillet over high heat and, when hot, add a thin layer of olive oil. When the oil is hot, brown the lamb, in batches, until deeply browned on all sides (be patient and don’t crowd the pan). Transfer each batch of browned meat to a tray, as you continue to brown the rest. When finished, dump out any oil from the pan, but don’t wipe out the interior. Deglaze the pan, over high heat, with the reserved wine, reducing it to a syrupy 1/2 cup, and reserve.

3) To simmer the lamb: Bring the stock to a boil in a 4-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan. Stir the reduced wine into the stock, along with the browned meat and bring the liquid to a brisk bubble. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the meat, covered tightly, until meltingly tender, but not dry, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Using a large slotted utensil, transfer the meat to a big bowl. Bring the stock to a rolling boil, over high heat, uncovered. Add the diced potatoes and set your timer for 10 minutes. After 4 minutes have elapsed, add the carrots and cook them with the potatoes until the timer sounds. Meanwhile, position a medium-mesh wire sieve over an empty 2-quart bowl. When the timer goes off, pour the stock into the sieve, allowing it to capture the vegetables. Place the drained vegetables into the bowl with the cooked meat. Leave the stock in the bowl, for now.

4) To cook the pearl onions with the mushrooms: First boil the raw onions for 7 minutes, then drain them and run them under cold water to stop the cooking process. Slice off the root end of each onion and slip off their skins. Heat a 12-inch, heavy-bottomed, deep-sided skillet over high heat and, when hot, add 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the sliced mushrooms and cook them, over high heat, until tender and starting to turn golden, about 4 minutes. Stir in the pearl onions and cook, until any released liquid from the mushrooms totally evaporates and the onions are turning golden, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Empty the onions and mushrooms into the bowl with the meat and other vegetables. Put the pan back on the stove, without wiping out the interior.

5) To make the sauce and assemble the pot pies: Melt the butter in the same 12-inch skillet, over medium heat and, when hot and bubbling, stir in the leeks. Reduce the heat to low and cook the leeks until tender and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Raise the heat to high and stir in the flour. Cook the vegetable-based “roux,” stirring constantly, for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes. Add only 6 cups of the hot stock and bring it to a brisk boil, uncovered (freeze the rest for another recipe). Reduce the heat to low and simmer the sauce until thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the thyme and creme fraiche (or cream) and simmer 3 more minutes. Pour the sauce over the meat and vegetables. Fold in the peas and cherry tomatoes and season again with salt and pepper.

Spoon the meat and vegetable mixture into six individual oven-proof crocks, dividing equally. Let the contents cool completely. Meanwhile, roll out your puff pastry, 1/8-inch thick, on a lightly floured surface. Cut out 6 rounds to fit the top of your crocks and cut out a decorative 1/3-inch-wide vent in the center of each round using a tiny pastry cutter (or a thimble). Apply a round of pastry to the top of each filled crock and press the edges of dough onto the outer sides of the rim, helping the dough to adhere. Refrigerate the dishes, covered with plastic wrap, until ready to bake.

6) To bake: Preheat the oven to 400 F. Assemble your egg glaze. Remove the pot pies from the refrigerator and uncover them. Place the crocks on a large shallow baking sheet. Brush the pastry with the egg glaze and sprinkle the tops with sesame seeds, if using. Bake the pot pies until the pastry is golden, very crisp and the filling is visibly bubbling through the vents, 35 to 45 minutes . Serve them right away.

Timing is Everything:

The pot pies can be fully assembled and topped with pastry one day ahead and kept refrigerated, covered with plastic wrap. Don’t apply the glaze, however, until just before baking.


SHOPPING LIST for Lamb Pot Pies

At-a-Glance Reminder of Ingredients

Ingredients for the pot pies:

  • 3 1/2 to 4 pounds lamb stew meat (from the shoulder or neck), cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes
  • 2 cups dry red wine
  • 1 yellow onion, cut into wedges
  • Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • Pure olive oil, as needed, for browning the lamb
  • 8 cups lamb stock (simmer browned lamb bones in chicken stock, strain and defat) or combine beef with chicken stock
  • 1 pound new potatoes (about 2 large), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
  • 4 carrots, peeled and diagonally sliced 1/2-inch thick
  • 8 ounces fresh pearl onions (or use frozen pearl onions, thawed)
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • 10 ounces button mushrooms, wiped clean and sliced 1/4-inch thick
  • 1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter
  • 2 cups (packed) cleaned, thinly sliced, leeks (use the white and light green)
  • 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme (or 1 1/2 teaspoons crumbled dried thyme)
  • 1/4 cup thick creme fraiche or heavy cream
  • 1 generous cup frozen peas, thawed
  • 1 1/2 cups whole cherry tomatoes, stems removed
  • 1 pound frozen store-bought puff pastry, thawed
  • Glaze: 1 egg, mixed with 1 teaspoon water and strained
  • Sesame seeds, for sprinkling (optional)


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Crispy Skillet Cornbread

This recipe is pretty basic, except for the addition of sautéed chopped onions. But to this, you may add a myriad of other ingredients, depending on your mood and who you are feeding (see variations). For the most interesting texture, use medium-ground (not fine) cornmeal. And cultured buttermilk is the secret ingredient to making the best-tasting, crispest, (yet incredibly tender) cornbread. (Buttermilk is the secret to so many different recipes that I’ve lost count!) Using an old-fashioned, well-seasoned cast iron skillet ensures the crispest, most authentic results. Today, you can even buy pre-seasoned cast iron pans. In a pinch, a heavy round cake pan will do. Any time I’ve suggested a tool, a piece of equipment, or a culinary term that’s unfamiliar to you, you can go to Kitchen Management for more information.

Special Equipment

  • Wide blending fork or batter whisk
  • Sifter or triple-mesh wire strainer
  • 10 1/2-inch (1 1/2-inches deep) well-seasoned or pre-seasoned cast iron skillet or heavy 10-inch round cake pan (2 inches deep)

For the cornbread batter:

  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 1/2 cup minced yellow onion
  • Freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • 1 1/2 cups medium-ground yellow or white cornmeal
  • 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 cups cultured buttermilk, at room temperature
  • 2 extra-large eggs, lightly beaten
  • 1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) butter, melted
  • 3 tablespoons clarified butter or solid vegetable shortening
  • Softened butter, for accompaniment

1) To set up: Place a 10-inch cast iron skillet or heavy cake pan on the center shelf of the oven. (If using a cake pan, brush or spray the sides with flavorless vegetable oil.) Preheat the oven to 425o F.

2) To sauté the onions: Heat a small skillet over medium heat with 1 tablespoon butter. When melted and bubbling, add minced onion and sauté until softened and fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add some freshly ground black pepper, remove from heat and set aside.

3) To assemble the batter: Place cornmeal, flour, baking soda, salt and sugar in a medium-sized mixing bowl. Using a whisk, combine well and then sift into another bowl. Pour buttermilk into a separate bowl; add lightly beaten eggs and cooled sautéed onions and mix well. Pour buttermilk mixture and sautéed onions into the bowl with the dry mixture and add melted butter with another grind or two of fresh black pepper. Using a wide blending fork or a batter whisk, gently combine mixture until there are no dry pockets.

4) To bake: Place clarified butter or solid shortening into the preheated pan while it remains in oven. Close oven door and allow the fat to liquefy and become hot (1 minute). Open the oven door and carefully (using oven mitts!) pull the rack holding the skillet toward you. Using a rubber spatula, somewhat quickly (so the oven doesn’t cool) pour cornmeal mixture into the hot skillet (the batter should sizzle furiously). Push the pan back into the oven and close the door. Bake until firm but not overly dry and a toothpick comes out clean when inserted into the center of the bread, about 20 minutes. Meanwhile warm your serving plate.

5) To invert and serve: Carefully remove pan from oven and run a knife around its circumference. Place a flat cookie sheet or a wire rack over the top and invert bread onto rack. Immediately invert once more onto a warmed serving plate so bread is right side up. Cut into wedges and serve hot with softened butter.

Timing is Everything

  • The dry ingredients can be mixed, sifted and left in a covered bowl days before needed. Just give a good swish with a whisk to combine and lighten before assembling.
  • Although batters leavened only with baking soda should be baked soon after being assembled, this batter can be fully combined, covered and left at a comfortable room temperature for up to 1 hour before pouring into the preheated skillet. Or, for best results, simply combine the dry ingredients in one bowl and the wet ingredients in another and refrigerate the latter–hours ahead. Add the sautéed onions to the wet ingredients and allow them to sit out at room temperature for 1 hour before combining wet and dry ingredients (along with melted butter) just before baking.

Cornbread Variations

The sautéed onions can be omitted. Or, while sautéing the onions, add 1 or more of the following: 1/3 cup minced red or green bell pepper; 1 chopped, stemmed and seeded jalapeño chili pepper and/or 1/3 cup chopped hard sausage (andouille, or pepperoni, or chorizo, with the casing removed); you can also sauté 3 pieces bacon, until crisp, drain and coarsely chop. Then sauté the onion in 1 tablespoon of bacon drippings instead of the butter and add chopped bacon when assembling butter. Another variation is to sauté 1/3 cup crumbled fresh sweet or hot Italian sausage in a bit of olive oil until golden; pour out any accumulated fat and add onions and 1 clove of minced garlic.

Clarified Butter
To clarify butter, slowly melt 2 or more sticks of unsalted butter in a heavy-bottomed saucepan (preferably one with a spout) over low heat, without stirring, until totally liquefied and the milky residue that’s fallen to the bottom of the pan becomes light golden and gives off a nutty aroma. Remove the pan from heat and let the butter settle for 15 minutes. Using a fine-mesh skimmer or a small shallow spoon, remove any white foamy substance that sits on top of the butterfat. When no milky solids remain on top, carefully pour the pure, yellow butterfat through a fine-mesh skimmer or a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, leaving any toasted residue behind. Expect to lose up to a quarter of your original volume, after straining. Store clarified butter in the refrigerator in a securely shut container for up to 6 months.

SHOPPING LIST

At-a-Glance Reminder of Ingredients

For the cornbread batter:

  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 1/2 cup minced yellow onion
  • Freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • 1 1/2 cups medium-ground yellow or white cornmeal
  • 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
  • 2 1/2 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 cups cultured buttermilk, at room temperature
  • 2 extra-large eggs, lightly beaten
  • 1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) butter, melted
  • 3 tablespoons clarified butter (see recipe) or solid vegetable shortening
  • Softened butter, for accompaniment

From the supermarket shelf:

  • Unbleached, all-purpose flour
  • Medium-ground yellow cornmeal
  • Baking soda
  • Fine table salt
  • Granulated sugar
  • Black pepper

From the produce aisle:

  • Yellow onion

From the refrigerated section:

  • Extra-large eggs

From the dairy case:

  • Buttermilk
  • Unsalted butter (for the batter, to clarify and for serving)

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