I’ve always had a major love affair with potatoes and could easily eat them every day, twice a day, for the rest of my life. So, I’m certainly not one of those that waits for Hanukkah to make, share and enjoy things like potato pancakes. Although making latkes (individual potato pancakes) is more traditional, I wanted to give you another (and more elegant) way to experience the same crisp exterior and a deeper, even more velvety interior.  I often like to make one large circular cake, called a potato “galette.” (What my son Ben would comically call “an Uncle Buck latke!”) which is the perfect accompaniment to a gorgeous seared steak, veal chop, a regal roast prime rib of beef or thinly sliced duck breast –and let’s not forget duck confit!!

Making a potato galette is easy and beyond delicious.  Here’s how to do it…

Before you get started, preheat the oven to 450F.

Tools you’ll need:

• A food processor with a shredding disc (which is certainly the easiest way to go) or use an-old fashioned box shredder. (Have band-aids handy.).
• A seasoned cast iron pan, 10 1/2 inches in diameter, which will produce a galette that feeds 4 well and 6 adequately.

Ingredients you’ll need:

• 4 medium-large Russet (Idaho) potatoes (Russets are the best breed for this, whether making potato pancakes or a galette, because of their higher starch content. This enables the interior of the cake to homogenize yet remain beautifully textural after cooking.  Just thinking about this recipe is making me salivate…)
• 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and quartered
• 1 extra-large egg
• 3 tablespoons matzo meal (not flour, which tends to make both latkes and a larger potato cake gluey. If matzo meal is not available, grind up some salted Saltine crackers and use an equal amount)
• 1/4 to 1/3 cup chopped fresh chives (or use flat-leaf Italian parsely)
• Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper and cayenne (all to taste–but don’t be stingy with the seasoning since the flavor of potatoes can seem muted when insufficiently seasoned).

• 4 rounded tablespoons fat (your choice: extra-virgin olive oil (not my first choice), clarified butter (a fine choice, but my third choice) rendered chicken-fat (a finer choice, which is my second choice), duck fat after making duck confit (MY FIRST CHOICE!)

 Above is some fat I’ve scooped out of the container of my duck confit. It’s flavored with garlic, shallots, thyme, rosemary, salt, pepper  and, of course, duck!–And, like chicken-fat that’s been rendered down with onions, duck fat simmered low and slow for hours with duck legs and the above mentioned ingredients, produces one of the worlds great delicacies and is MUCH more flavor enhancing than when used plain–without being first first melted down and simmered with aromatics.

To assemble the potato mixture…

Peel the potatoes, cut into chunks and shred in the food processor along with a medium yellow onion that’s first been quartered.

Pour the shredded potato and onions into a bowl, lifting handfuls at a time, squeeze out the excess moisture over the sink. Place this on top of doubled, cotton kitchen towels (not a hairy kind) and continue until you’ve squeezed all of it. Gather up the ends of the towels and twist, squeezing out as much of whatever liquid is left as you can (don’t stop twisting until you express an audible “grunt.”)

Pile the shredded mixture back into the cleaned bowl and add 3 tablespoons matzo meal, 1 extra-large egg, a fat pinch of kosher salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper (adding some cayenne also wouldn’t hurt…). Add chopped fresh chives or use flat-leaf Italian parsley, or a combo.

Use your working hand to combine everything.

• After mixing the ingredients, cover the bowl with a towel to help prevent the potato mixture from oxidizing, while you move on to heat your pan. (Trying to coat as much of the potato with the egg will also help to seal the exposed potato flesh.)
• Heat a 10 1/2 inch seasoned cast iron skillet, over medium heat, with 4 rounded tablespoons of your choice of fat (you want a shallow, but even layer of melted fat). When the fat is hot, add the potato mixture and spread it into an even layer, pressing down with a turning spatula.

• Cook over medium-high heat, until the bottom of the cake is seared, 4 to 6 minutes. (You’ll be able to smell the browning process happen (which is when the potato mixture starts to caramelize on the bottom)–you’ll also be able to smell over-browning, so let your nose help you to know when to proceed with this next step.
• Reduce the heat to quite low, place a lid over the pan (this does not have to be a close-fitting lid). Steam the potatoes this way for 10 to 20 minutes. (Do what works for you, timing-wise, since at this point, it’s all about making the interior tender, which is very forgiving).

• Uncover the pan and poke the blade of a turning spatula around the rim of the cake, making sure it is free, then place the pan (uncovered) into the 450F oven. Bake until the top is golden brown and crisp, 35 to 45 minutes. If you need to make the cake wait for another dish, once golden, loosely cover the top and reduce the temperature to 325F. Uncover for 2 to 3 minutes before removing from the oven.

The potato cake should be extremely crisp on the bottom and, if your pan is well seasoned, should be able to simply be lifted out and slid onto a serving platter, using a large, off-set turning spatula.

Use a large pizza wheel to cut the potato galette into wedges and serve hot with applesauce (smooth or chunky) or sour cream and fresh chives.

The Point: Since we’re about to embark on the last nights of Hanukkah, I thought it especially fitting to give you something especially delicious to celebrate the final blazing! And, since we’re also about to say “bye-bye” to 2011, this is also a great time to expand on an already established traditional recipe –with an over-sized potato pancake to help ring in a wonderful New Year in a big, beautiful and extra savory way!

Tags: cooking in cast iron, cooking with clarified butter, cooking with duck fat, cooking with potatoes, cooking with rendered chicken fat, crisp potato galette recipe, potato cake

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Duck confit (preserved duck) is, similar to chicken, beef and veal stock, something that I don’t like to be without. Not that we eat it often but, like stock that’s perfectly happy to sit in the freezer–duck confit (pronounced “con-fee”) is perfectly happy to wait in the refrigerator until someone in the house gets a hankering (usually that’s me).

To make confit (to “confit” anything) is to simmer something completely submerged in fat and then store whatever you’ve cooked in the fat used to cook it. Fat is non-porous so, once congealed, the food cooked (protein or vegetable) is much less susceptible to oxidation (which causes spoilage) which is why making confit is an Old-World form of cookery, used often when refrigeration wasn’t possible.

So, you might be saying to yourself “there’s no problem with refrigeration these days, Lauren, so why, in such health-conscious times would anyone want to cook with all that duck fat?”

It’s simple. Because anyone with a discerning palate knows that duck confit is one of the most delicious and satisfying foods in the world. And, by the way, most of the fat stays on the outside–it just bathes the meat, keeping it succulent throughout cooking and keeping.  

So, without further adieu, let’s make duck confit!

First you need to order duck legs (raw) which is actually the most challenging part! Getting your hands on fresh duck legs is difficult, even when shopping online. Although I get my duck fat at D’Artagnan, they don’t sell raw duck legs. (You can get duck legs already cooked in fat, but that’s not at all the point of this blog which is to teach you how to make a FAR better version (in both taste and texture) than what you can buy (trust me, here…). I’m lucky enough to have a fabulous butcher (Dom) who orders them for me.  

Although you can make a small batch of duck confit, since they stay so well in the fridge, I suggest making a larger batch (8 to 12 legs at one time). You’ll also need plenty of duck fat, so either get this from your butcher or order it online, which is easy.

Once you have the duck legs, the first step is to cure them for 1 or 2 days in the refrigerator (I usually do it for two days). This imparts deep flavor into the meat and skin.

Once the legs are in your possession, rinse and dry them. For 8 to 12 legs, assemble these ingredients (for a smaller batch, just halve the ingredients)…

• 16 cloves, minced
• 1/2 cup Kosher salt
• 3 tablespoons minced fresh thyme leaves
• 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
• 4 large shallots, minced (about 2/3 cup)
• 1 tablespoon onion powder
• 8 to 12 large raw duck legs, either Muscovy, Moulard or Long Island Pekin)

1) To season duck legs and chill: Mash the minced garlic with some of the salt, using the blade of a chefs knife until it’s paste-like. Add this to a nonreactive bowl and combine with the minced thyme, pepper, shallots, onion powder and remaining salt. Place the duck legs in a nonreactive dish or bowl and rub the seasoning mixture all over both sides of each leg. Cover and chill for 1 day or up to 2 days.

You’ll need 14 to 16 containers of duck fat to accomodate 8 to 12 legs. Here’s what the container looks like…

I really do mean, you’ll need at least 14 containers for 8 to 12 legs…

I usually keep mine in the freezer until it’s time to make duck confit. Then, the night before, I thaw it in the fridge.

You’ll also need:

• 24 cloves of garlic, peeled and kept whole
• 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes
• 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• 2 sprigs fresh rosemary

2) To simmer duck legs: Take legs out of the refrigerator 30 minutes to 1 hour before simmering. Then, using paper towels, wipe off most of the seasoning mixture. Melt the duck fat in an 8 to 10-quart, heavy bottomed pot (for a small batch, using 4 legs, melt the fat in a 12-inch, deep-sided skillet), over medium-low heat. Add the duck legs, the whole garlic cloves, the crushed pepper flakes, peppercorns and sprig of each, thyme and rosemary. The fat should cover the duck legs completely. Attach a deep-fry thermometer to the side of the skillet so the bottom of the mercury tip rests above the bottom of the pan, about half-way down the depth of the fat. (I actually use two thermometers, just to make sure the temperature is accurate.) Reduce the heat to very low.

Over low heat, bring the oil up to 190F, uncovered (which will take at least 1 hour), then continue to cook, uncovered, for 2 to 2 ½ hours, trying to maintain a temperature of 200F and never higher than 210F. (I like mine to stay between 190F and 200F.) The fat should only produce the smallest amount of movement. If bubbling, the temperature is too high which can make the meat stringy.) If you don’t have serious control over the heat generated by your burners, you’ll need to use a flame tamer.

As the duck cooks, impurities will rise to the surface of the pot. Use a skimmer to remove this, occasionally.

Although you can wait until the end of the cooking process to remove this film of impurities, because it acts like a skin on the top of the fat, this becomes quite insulating and can cause the temperature of the fat to rise abruptly–so it’s best to occasionally pull this stuff off the top using a fine-mesh skimmer… 

At this point, the duck meat should be very tender. Pull the pan to a cool burner and allow the duck and fat to cool to just warm.

Then, lift out the cooked duck legs and place them in a large rectangular plastic container (one that comes with a tight fitting lid). Strain the fat through a fine-mesh sieve into another large bowl, trapping the solids and stopping before you get to the duck juices at the bottom of the pot. Dump out the solids (although I usually save the garlic which is amazing spread on crusty bread. Strain the fat once more directly into the container holding the cooked duck. Shimmy the fat and legs gently, making sure they are all completely submerged…

Once cool, attach the lid and store in the refrigerator. Once cold, this is what it looks like inside.

To retrieve the duck, you’ll need to let the fat soften a bit (about an hour at a comfortable room temperature), then pry through the fat, being careful not to break up the meat. Use your clean fingers to feel your way around and take out as many legs as you want. …

Then, smooth the fat out, so that it looks as it did before…

 Now–to the best part–Crisping the duck!

Heat a dark, heavy pan until hot, over low-medium heat (a shallow, seasoned cast iron fajitas pan is best). Sear the duck, skin side down, and sear slowly, allowing any excess fat to render out. Carefully pour this fat into a heatproof bowl (this is why the shallow pan is best, so you won’t have to tilt the pan at such a deep angle–which makes it more likely to make the legs fall out!–if all you have is a deeper cast iron pan, remove the legs to a tray, then dump out the fat and put the legs back in the pan). Turn the legs and brown on the other side. Turn again, skin side down, and place a lid over the top to heat through. Uncover and turn again, skin side up. Dump out any more fat from the pan. When the meat is hot and the exterior is golden and crisp, it’s time to eat!

Since duck confit is rich, I like to serve it with a main-dish salad or with some stewed sweet and sour red cabbage and roast potatoes (roll some halved red potatoes in some of the melted duck fat and roast at 400F until the interiors are tender and the exterior golden and crisp).

The Point: If you’ve lasted this long, reading all the way through this process, I figure you’re someone that might actually make duck confit at home. I hope so. Let me know!

Tags: crisp duck confit recipe, duck confit recipes, homemade duck, how to make duck confit

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Although one might wonder, in the 21 th century, why anyone would make their own duck confit–those that have done it know why–Because it’s so meltingly succulent with skin that’s so crisp and savory –that the cook (after serving this) feels like they’ve driven themselves and those at the table to another planet–one that’s friendly yet alluring–Old-World yet swanky–incredibly soothing yet unbelievably sexy. So, since I’m about to replenish my supply, I thought I would take you all along with me. Buckle up and stay posted!

Tags: Duck confit

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It’s becoming comical how, after all these years–after writing cookbooks, hosting television and radio shows–after working with culinary giants like Julia Child, I’m still just NEVER over it! Creating in my kitchen brings me such awesome feelings–literally–when doing everything, but especially when baking.

Sometimes I think my computer will explode from all the food pictures–Especially because so many of them are duplicates–

For example, I must have about 4,000 pictures of my pane di casa-

And here’s my latest picture of what I served for dessert last night for dinner guests…

One of about 1,000 photos of this crisp and glistening  Apple-Cinnamon Galette.

And yesterday, while my French rolls were rising, I couldn’t resist re-capturing their pudgyness.

 I shaped half of the dough into ovals and the other half into rounds…

And then, before slipping them into a very hot oven, I just HAD to quickly shoot them after slashing and snipping their tops (for the gazillionth time)…

As they baked, I (as usual) stood by the oven waiting for the buzzer to sound so I could finally get to see (and photograph) what their beyond-belief aromas promised– 

And, as the rolls sat perched on wire racks, their audible crackling sounds was like hearing a favorite song–but better– because this song was played “in person” and not on the radio– which (of course, once again) compelled me to wobble on a footstool, camera in hand, to give them the rock star status they deserve.

And, last week, these freshly baked pumpkin breads (recipe coming…) actually made me gasp –not just because of their beauty…

but also because I knew how the addition of plumped dried currants and chopped, butter-toasted pepitas would elevate the taste of the loaves…

And that goes for the muffins, too! (This new recipe will, no doubt, be photographed over and over again…)

The Point: Although it might seem silly to keep taking pictures of the same recipe, it seems much sillier to give up any opportunity to personally experience (and to instigate in others) the feeling of awe. I hope I’m never “over it.”

Tags: apple tart, baking bread, crusty bread, French rolls, I love to bake, I love to cook, pumpkin bread, pumpkin muffins, the joy of baking

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I’m sorry I haven’t posted a blog in a few weeks. I’ve been SO busy cooking and baking! …The kids are all home from school coming and going and their friends, too, have been in and out. It’s been amazing and, I must say, pretty exhausting (especially when added to my work). But having the kids around is such a gift. And, cooking my children’s favorites (as well as their friend’s favorites) has always been my way to convey my understanding of what makes them happy on the inside. (Of course, I’m no dope…I also know that doing this is great way to keep them all coming home!)

Julie, my middle daughter, had her boyfriend Peter here for the weekend (from Los Angeles).  This was the first time Jon and I got to meet Peter and I wanted him to feel comfortable in our home. So, I did what comes naturally…I started grilling Julie about what he likes to eat. She told me that “Peter eats everything” (I immediately liked him (A LOT)…) and that he loves berries of all kinds so, the plan became to include berries every day in our meals. …which, in mid-summer, certainly isn’t hard to do. 

Anyway, I’m moved to write to you now because I just finished THE best blueberry muffin I’ve ever eaten. NO…I didn’t buy it (so silly). 

Here they are, just out of the oven… 

Blueberry muffins with huge tops that boast a macadamia nut and sugar topping.

I had forgotten how good they are. Beyond good...

I cut the muffins apart where they kissed at the top, and then unleashed them from their tin onto a wire rack. 

So, during Peter’s stay,  one morning it was ethereal stacks of blueberry buttermilk pancakes for breakfast (I didn’t take a picture because  pancakes don’t wait– certainly not without suffering.)…Then, the next night, for dessert, I made a gorgeous mixed-berry, free-form tart with an amazing,  jam-laced cream cheese filling) ... 

See? I told you it was gorgeous...The pastry is completely baked first on a hot pizza stone, then cooled and filled.

This recipe is coming soon to the Great Recipes section …. 

And then came the muffins which were so good I just had to write to you and urge you to take advantage of summers abundant supply of blueberries and make them yourself. The only difference in the recipe provided on the site, and the muffins that I just made, is the topping. Instead of plain sugar, in these, I used a very delish sugar-nut topping that I keep in the freezer as a “ready and waiting” topping for a variety of muffins and always on my banana bread. 

All kinds of sweet toppings and  savory crumbs sit sleeping in my freezer…
Here’s what the “topping” difference looks like in the baked muffins… 

Muffins baked with a plain sugar topping.

Muffins baked with nuts and spices in the sugar topping.

One Great Banana BreadMy niece, Elizabeth, had mentioned to my daughter that she felt in need of comfort because her dog just had surgery so I made her this (above) banana bread.  Then, today, I made an identical one for my daughter, Jessie, because I saw her face drop to the floor when she saw I only made one loaf, for Liz, yesterday. 

Seems to be that regardless of the age of the recipient, banana bread absolutely spells c-o-m-f-o-r-t. And, in my house, I’m always ready and able to be a provider simply because I can’t seem to walk past a pile of really ripe bananas in the market without taking them home like stray children (no joke).

One of life's great treasures...

The point: I’ve found that whether the dish is sweet or savory, making the favorite foods of those I care about and/or want to get to know better has become this amazing way to convey a highly valued (and repeatable) form of personalized caring –and an almost instantaneous route to establishing a profound kind of interpersonal connectedness. Yes, it takes some time and forethought to provide custom-made comfort but, to me, this effort has a huge (and quite far-reaching) payoff when I want someone to not just know (by hearing) but to also really feel how important they are to me. So, I highly suggest that you ask those that you hold close questions about their taste preferences and make mental notes of their answers. You won’t believe the sweet look of surprise on the face of the lucky recipient  as they learn, in all kinds of delicious ways, that you were really listening…. (You also might want to think twice before you turn your nose up at a pile of really ripe bananas.)

Tags: best blueberry muffins recipe, blueberry muffin recipe, blueberry muffins, cooking for kids, creating a happy home, good parenting skills, how to use cooking as a form of custom-made caring, how to use cooking to have happy kids, rules of good parenting, sweet toppings for quickbreads, the benefits of good parenting, THE best blueberry muffins, the joys of banana bread, what are the characteristics of a good parent

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Have you ever left someone’s home after sharing a fabulous meal and said to yourself “I wish my home could smell as wonderful, or I wish I knew how to entertain with such ease, or warmth, or If only I knew how to cook like that!”? If you let those comparative thoughts or feelings stop you from trying, I’d like you to remember how you felt after experiencing the first few rounds of a new sport. Did you feel like less, when watching a person on the next court who had a relentless back-hand, or when the skier, who flew by you on the slope, exhibited extraordinary skill? I doubt it. Usually, we allow those people to inspire us. We use glimpses of proficiency to reinforce the notion that, if we make the act of practicing a priority then we too, could become more comfortable and knowing in that particular arena. Well, why should cooking and entertaining be any different?

Choosing to make quality home cooked meals a more regular part of daily or weekly life is one of the best ways to develop “cooking muscles,” which is what will give you the ease, confidence and ultimate ability that you admire in others. So, like with any sport or art, the only way to embellish your strength and endurance and to become self-trusting, is to “do” as often as possible. And, believe me, it’s a lot easier to become a great cook, then it is to consistently hit a golf ball down the middle of the fairway. (No joke….)

When new to entertaining, allow yourself to embrace the characteristics exhibited by those you admire, and be more “present” to the best parts of your experience, when in their homes. This is one of the best ways to learn more about yourself and about what makes you happy. Rather than setting out to do and be everything for others, ask yourself “What type of home life would make me feel the most comforted and the proudest to share?” Then, make yourself happy. Those around you will gladly come along for the ride! Cooking and entertaining is all about sharing your individual interpretation of deliciousness with those you care about. So, instead of worrying that you’re not like someone else, figure out how to bring more of YOU into your home-life, using the proficiency of others to inspire and guide you.

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