Contrary to what most think, citron is not the plural of all citrus fruit. Citron is actually it’s own breed and is said to be the oldest form of citrus that originated in Southeast Asia. Although citron is now grown in many more countries around the world, it’s rarely found fresh in the US and, when it is, it’s usually only available in specialty food shops and high-end grocery stores like Whole Foods. Having said this, if you ever see it, I suggest you hoard it since, when freshly candied, citron tastes unbelivably floral and has a dense, chewy texture that translates into an overall exquisite eating experience. Oh–and just in case you think you’ve tried citron and don’t like it because the only kind you’ve had is store-bought–There is NO comparison between homemade candied citron (as well as candied orange and lemon rind) and the small, hard, placid squares found in the supermarket (or even on the web)! Trust me, it’s like comparing a gorgeous palace with a bowling alley.

Now that I’ve hopefully peaked your curiosity, here’s what a fresh citron looks like…

They can grow to be ridiculously large–but are most often sold like above, the size of a very large pebbley looking lemon that’s the size of a grapefruit–This (above) or a bit smaller is the size I’m talking about and is what you should use to make candied citron.

The interior of citron is not at all the prize–the flesh is dry (like an over-the-hill orange) and a bit leathery–It’s the outer rind that you want. Fresh citron has a hard, thick outer rind and the fruit looks like this when cut open. (The “rind” is considered everything above the interior fruit-flesh.)

See how thick the rind is?? After a series of blanching, draining and then long, slow cooking in a thick sugar syrup, the thick, initially intensly bitter layer of white pith is rendered much less bossy– retaining just enough bite to spar playfully with the candy.

See how little fruit there is in comparison to the rind?

After cutting citron into wedges, you need to remove the inner fruit. You can use a grapefruit spoon. I just use my fingers to pry it out.

Boil the peel 2 times (uncovered), over high heat, in two separate batches of rapidly boiling water, for 10 minutes each time. (8 minutes each for thick-skinned oranges, lemons and grapefruit). As a time saver, I bring two pots to a boil, then after blanching the first time, I just drain the peel and then dump the pieces into the second pot. If you use one pot, rinse the interior after draining and fill with fresh water–bring to a boil and proceed.

Here (below) is the citron after the first blanching. Although initially very rigid, the rind starts to soften.

Here is what they look like after the second blanching. Much more bendable.

For 1 or 2 citron (or 2 oranges and 2 lemons and 1 grapefruit): After draining the blanched citron strips, I make a sugar syrup in a 12-inch, deep-sided skillet with 3 cups water, 3 1/2 cups granulated sugar and 1/2 cup light corn syrup. The syrup is important to keep the citron supple, after cooking.

After whisking together the syrup ingredients, bring the mixture to a boil. Add the blanched citron to the boiling syrup.

Place a sheet of parchment paper directly over the top (actually sitting on the fruit and syrup).

Place a heat-proof bowl on top of the paper, to help weight it down.

This set up (above) helps to prevent excess condensation from forming and diluting the syrup. The goal is to reduce the syrup slowly–keeping the peel submerged.

Turn the heat to low and simmer the citron rind at a slow but bouncy bubble for between 1 3/4 to 2 hours (about 1 hour for oranges, lemons and grapefruit).  After each 30 minutes, lift the paper and check how things are doing.

The point is to simmer until the syrup completely penetrates (permiates) the white pith. Once very tender, remove the paper and raise the heat, only to medium.—Now you’ll cook the liquid a bit more briskly in order to evaporate some of the water in the already reduced syrup. The syrup will seem very foamy on top and will bubble quite furiously.

As the liquid reduces, lower the heat. At this point, let your nose be your guide. Don’t allow the liquid to color beyond a very light amber. You will smell the syrup turn–this is when it becomes candy–if you let this go too far, the syrup will be too flavorful and will overwhelm the citron with an overly cooked taste.

Here is how the citron should look when you remove it from the syrup. It should be perfectly tender and the syrup should hug the rind.

Spray a wire cooling rack with flavorless vegetable spray and lay the candied citron on the rack in a single layer. If planning to sugar-coat the pieces, only allow them to settle until just warm. If allowed to sit too long, the outside will lose it’s sticky quality, which is what the sugar needs to adhere to.

After rolling in sugar, place back on the rack and allow them to dry for a few hours. Cover and store at room temperature.

Below is a combination of candied and sugared orange and lemon rind.

(Be forwarned, all types of sugared-candied citrus rind are, for me, a real weakness. When it’s in the house, it haunts me until every last strip is gone!)

If not planning to sugar-coat, then allow the pieces to dry on the rack for a few hours or overnight. Use an oiled chef’s knife to cut into small pieces …

Chopped candied citron…

Chopped candied orange and lemon rind…

Isn’t it amazing how you can almost experience the vibrancy of flavor just by looking? Just delicious!!

Oh–and if wondering what you might do with the candied chopped up citron, lemon and orange rind. How about some Panettone!

And how about…

Hot cross buns! (Recipe coming…)

The Point: Although, because of lack of availablity (and or timing constraints) we will, at times, need to use store-bought candied citron as well as other kinds of rind. But, since oranges, lemons and grapefruits are always available and since the eating experience with the homemade version is so elevated, I wanted to show you how do it yourself. I promise–the taste and texture is worth every second!

Tags: candied citron recipe, candied citrus rind recipes, easy candied citrus rind recipe, homemade candied lemon rind recipe, homemade candied rind, how to candy citron, what is citron?

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I’ve always had a major love affair with potatoes and could easily eat them every day, twice a day, for the rest of my life. So, I’m certainly not one of those that waits for Hanukkah to make, share and enjoy things like potato pancakes. Although making latkes (individual potato pancakes) is more traditional, I wanted to give you another (and more elegant) way to experience the same crisp exterior and a deeper, even more velvety interior.  I often like to make one large circular cake, called a potato “galette.” (What my son Ben would comically call “an Uncle Buck latke!”) which is the perfect accompaniment to a gorgeous seared steak, veal chop, a regal roast prime rib of beef or thinly sliced duck breast –and let’s not forget duck confit!!

Making a potato galette is easy and beyond delicious.  Here’s how to do it…

Before you get started, preheat the oven to 450F.

Tools you’ll need:

• A food processor with a shredding disc (which is certainly the easiest way to go) or use an-old fashioned box shredder. (Have band-aids handy.).
• A seasoned cast iron pan, 10 1/2 inches in diameter, which will produce a galette that feeds 4 well and 6 adequately.

Ingredients you’ll need:

• 4 medium-large Russet (Idaho) potatoes (Russets are the best breed for this, whether making potato pancakes or a galette, because of their higher starch content. This enables the interior of the cake to homogenize yet remain beautifully textural after cooking.  Just thinking about this recipe is making me salivate…)
• 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and quartered
• 1 extra-large egg
• 3 tablespoons matzo meal (not flour, which tends to make both latkes and a larger potato cake gluey. If matzo meal is not available, grind up some salted Saltine crackers and use an equal amount)
• 1/4 to 1/3 cup chopped fresh chives (or use flat-leaf Italian parsely)
• Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper and cayenne (all to taste–but don’t be stingy with the seasoning since the flavor of potatoes can seem muted when insufficiently seasoned).

• 4 rounded tablespoons fat (your choice: extra-virgin olive oil (not my first choice), clarified butter (a fine choice, but my third choice) rendered chicken-fat (a finer choice, which is my second choice), duck fat after making duck confit (MY FIRST CHOICE!)

 Above is some fat I’ve scooped out of the container of my duck confit. It’s flavored with garlic, shallots, thyme, rosemary, salt, pepper  and, of course, duck!–And, like chicken-fat that’s been rendered down with onions, duck fat simmered low and slow for hours with duck legs and the above mentioned ingredients, produces one of the worlds great delicacies and is MUCH more flavor enhancing than when used plain–without being first first melted down and simmered with aromatics.

To assemble the potato mixture…

Peel the potatoes, cut into chunks and shred in the food processor along with a medium yellow onion that’s first been quartered.

Pour the shredded potato and onions into a bowl, lifting handfuls at a time, squeeze out the excess moisture over the sink. Place this on top of doubled, cotton kitchen towels (not a hairy kind) and continue until you’ve squeezed all of it. Gather up the ends of the towels and twist, squeezing out as much of whatever liquid is left as you can (don’t stop twisting until you express an audible “grunt.”)

Pile the shredded mixture back into the cleaned bowl and add 3 tablespoons matzo meal, 1 extra-large egg, a fat pinch of kosher salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper (adding some cayenne also wouldn’t hurt…). Add chopped fresh chives or use flat-leaf Italian parsley, or a combo.

Use your working hand to combine everything.

• After mixing the ingredients, cover the bowl with a towel to help prevent the potato mixture from oxidizing, while you move on to heat your pan. (Trying to coat as much of the potato with the egg will also help to seal the exposed potato flesh.)
• Heat a 10 1/2 inch seasoned cast iron skillet, over medium heat, with 4 rounded tablespoons of your choice of fat (you want a shallow, but even layer of melted fat). When the fat is hot, add the potato mixture and spread it into an even layer, pressing down with a turning spatula.

• Cook over medium-high heat, until the bottom of the cake is seared, 4 to 6 minutes. (You’ll be able to smell the browning process happen (which is when the potato mixture starts to caramelize on the bottom)–you’ll also be able to smell over-browning, so let your nose help you to know when to proceed with this next step.
• Reduce the heat to quite low, place a lid over the pan (this does not have to be a close-fitting lid). Steam the potatoes this way for 10 to 20 minutes. (Do what works for you, timing-wise, since at this point, it’s all about making the interior tender, which is very forgiving).

• Uncover the pan and poke the blade of a turning spatula around the rim of the cake, making sure it is free, then place the pan (uncovered) into the 450F oven. Bake until the top is golden brown and crisp, 35 to 45 minutes. If you need to make the cake wait for another dish, once golden, loosely cover the top and reduce the temperature to 325F. Uncover for 2 to 3 minutes before removing from the oven.

The potato cake should be extremely crisp on the bottom and, if your pan is well seasoned, should be able to simply be lifted out and slid onto a serving platter, using a large, off-set turning spatula.

Use a large pizza wheel to cut the potato galette into wedges and serve hot with applesauce (smooth or chunky) or sour cream and fresh chives.

The Point: Since we’re about to embark on the last nights of Hanukkah, I thought it especially fitting to give you something especially delicious to celebrate the final blazing! And, since we’re also about to say “bye-bye” to 2011, this is also a great time to expand on an already established traditional recipe –with an over-sized potato pancake to help ring in a wonderful New Year in a big, beautiful and extra savory way!

Tags: cooking in cast iron, cooking with clarified butter, cooking with duck fat, cooking with potatoes, cooking with rendered chicken fat, crisp potato galette recipe, potato cake

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Sorry I haven’t written in a bit!–I’ve been working so hard, preparing and shooting new episodes of Baking Made Easy! Since I know that many of you (like me) are busy working, shopping (and schlepping) I wanted (so much) to teach you a really delish side dish–that’s easy enough to gussy up a soothing weeknight meal and also gorgeous enough to earn a place on even the most “special occasion” menu.

So, since at this particular moment—with time constraints as they are–and with my wanting to connect to you at the risk of being quick–(and admitting that there probably won’t be much literary poetry in this blog) I trust that the food I’m about to share will take care of everything I’m lacking.

I am now going to show you how to make roasted chunks of butternut squash, tossed with garlic, olive oil, curry and seedless grapes–SO GOOD and would be perfect with a holiday roast turkey or goose (or a weeknight roast chicken)! And then, I’m going to show you how to use the beginnings of one recipe (the seasoning base for the squash) to create a soothing main dish (an herb-roast chicken) as well as give you lots more ideas for other ways to use the same seasoning mixture.

First, let’s take care of the squash …

You have a choice–You can either start out with a whole butternut squash, which looks like this:

Or, you can also buy squash already peeled and cut into squares, which looks like this:

If you decide to work with whole squash, just peel it with a sturdy swivel vegetable peeler, then cut the squash in half, vertically…

Use a spoon to remove the seeds and any stringy stuff…

And cut the squash into cubes (not too small, not too big)–like this…

Then toss in some seedless grapes. (Don’t be shy–you’ll be amazed at how unusually delicious they are after roasting!)

Per each squash, you’ll use 1 1/2 to  2 cups grapes.

To season the squash and grapes, mix a few cloves of minced garlic with some extra-virgin olive oil, some crushed red pepper flakes and ground black pepper, to taste.

I suggest you make a larger batch than you’ll need for this recipe (so, to what’s above, just add more garlic, more olive oil and more black pepper).

Now, spoon some of the garlic oil onto the squash and grapes–enough to lightly but evenly lubricate them.

Now sprinkle on some curry (onto the squash and grapes, not into the garlic-oil). Again, don’t be afraid–Curry and butternut squash have a natural affinity for each other. Having said this, if you’re not sure about your audience, go slow–And, then after you hear raves at the table, you’ll can be more generous the next time around.

By the way, curry is not one spice–it’s actually a blend of over twenty herbs and spices–and each “blend” varies in taste and color. Some are quite sweet and others are more hot. My favorite is Madras curry, said to have originated in South India (and the blend I like is produced by Sun Brand) which tastes bright and hot and is, to me, just perfect.

Add salt and pepper and then use your hands to rub everything together.  Pile onto a shallow baking sheet that’s been first lined with several sheets of aluminum foil and rubbed with olive oil. Scrunch up the sides of the foil, which will help create low walls to contain the squash and grapes.

Season the top with more salt, pepper and curry, then cover with another sheet of foil  (dull side up, so you don’t deflect heat away from the pan) …

And use scissors or a skewer to poke holes in the foil, which will help hot air enter to soften the squash during the first half of the roasting process. This “set up” can be done early in the day and kept at a comfortable room temperature.

When getting ready to cook, preheat the oven to 450F.

(Oh, and don’t throw away any extra garlic oil. Here’s where the squash recipe grows legs!)

A roast chicken recipe moment…

Sorry for the digression but I can never resist an opportunity to teach yet another way to season, sear and roast a chicken…(I’ll be quick about it!)

Add some chopped thyme and rosemary to the garlic-oil (fresh is best, here…) and use it to rub on a raw chicken! If you need to add more oil, do it now.  (This is why I didn’t add curry to the seasoning mixture for the squash–I wanted to keep it as neutral as possible.)

Place a 3 to 3 1/2 pound chicken into a bowl lined with aluminum foil. Sprinkle all sides the bird with Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, then rub the herb-garlic-oil liberally onto the skin (all over).

The bird should glisten. Tie the legs shut with kitchen twine. Add more salt and pepper. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until 30 minutes to 1 hour before roasting. To get ready to roast, preheat the oven to 375 to 400F.

By the way, any extra herb-olive oil mixture can be refreshed with more oil, garlic, herbs etc. refrigerated and used the next night to season lamb chops, whether just for yourself or, as below indicates, for a crowd…

Or to season and roast whole fish, like these sea bass…

How about poached, seasoned and roasted crinkle-cut potato wedges…

See how that first garlic-oil mixture now has many uses! )

Anyway, back to finish up the bird. and then the squash..

Brown the seasoned chicken on the stove, in a heavy (and hot) nonstick skillet (no need to add extra fat because the bird is lubricated) and, after it’s brown on all sides (turning with tongs), over high heat, take the chicken out of the pan. If the pan isn’t able to go directly into the oven, switch to one that is. If the first pan is oven-proof, wipe it out and stick the chicken back into it. Squeeze some lemon over the top (1/2 juicy lemon per chicken) and, if desired, scatter some drained capers around the bird. Pour 1 generous cup of chicken stock into the pan. You can also quarter a couple of medium yellow onions and large button mushrooms and rub some garlic-herb-oil on them, and then scatter the vegetables around the chicken (with the lemon and capers). Roast in a preheated 375F oven for 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes, or until golden, crisp and the juices in the thigh run clear when pierced. (Add a bit more stock while roasting, if it seems to have evaporated.)

Herb-Roast Chicken.

Ok, now let’s finish the squash…

After cooking at 450F (covered) for 20 minutes, remove the top foil and allow the squash and grapes to roast another 20 minutes, or until blistered and looks like this…

Butternut squash, roasted with grapes, garlic, olive oil and curry.

Above are all dishes that will produce heaven on a plate.

The Point: Whether cooking on a random Tuesday night or for a major holiday, wanting something nurturing and delicious is always the goal–And, since it’s so easy to get bored with the same old side dishes, I thought I would show you something new and really yummy–and in such a way that would help you to understand the fluidity that’s inherent in the art of cooking. When assembling a side dish or a main dish protein (using one seasoning mixture), you can also create the seasoning base for several other entirely different dishes. So, think BIG and conceptually, when cooking. Ask yourself “How can I give this “mixture” legs?” Meaning, If you make this now, what else can it be used for, whether in this same meal–or when kept refrigerated and used throughout the week? This is how to not just be a good cook–but also a smart one.

Tags: butternut squash, butternut squash recipes, cooking with grapes, curry, curry recipes, herb roast chicken recipes, how to cut up fresh squash, roast chicken

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I woke up this morning and thought–”Oh no! I hope I’m not too late to remind you to NOT throw away your turkey carcass from Thanksgiving!” If I’ve caught you in time, I’ll try to make it quick! And, if you haven’t thought about it and are still picking the meat off the bones–today is also the day to remind you that TODAY is the last day it could possibly be good.

(But before I continue, let me first say that not all Jewish mothers enjoy instigating guilt–although most of us mothers, Jewish or not, will do it happily when it serves an important purpose–and what I’m about to say about making turkey stock certainly does–so listen up! )

Throwing out a cooked turkey frame should make you feel bad—awful–like dumping out a vat of ice-cold, crystal-clear water in the middle of the sun-parched Sahara desert. (Don’t worry, if you’ve still got the carcass, there’s still time to save yourself.)

Turkey bones make the most fabulous broth!–Especially if you add some raw poultry parts, which will augment the taste substantially–See–it’s the bones (cooked or not) that lend texture (a discernible physical dimension) to stock that will make it seem almost thickened, yet still esthetically clear–This “thickness” comes from both, gelatin (contained in bones) and the breaking down of cartilage which, after enough simmering, creates a liquid with more depth. The fact that the bones have been initially cooked –provides a “browned” part–and it’s this that offers not just an amazing depth of flavor but also a noticeably rich color that is simply not attainable when using all raw components. So, when you add raw poultry–you are bringing the sweet, pure taste of virgin skin and meat to the table (to the pot) and, adding something cooked adds the flavor and color benefits (coming from a special kind of brown-color compounds– from caramelization). Each offers a completely unique set of attributes to your finished stock.

So, today, since Thanksgiving just passed–the star “cooked component” is the turkey carcass.

And making stock is so easy!

Instead of throwing the cooked carcass into the garbage, toss it into a big pot with aromatic vegetables.

(Cut up lots of carrots, celery, onions, cleaned and sliced leeks–and what you don’t use today, simply freeze in a doubled freezer bag.) I also add some whole cloves of garlic and a bushy bunch of Italian parsley–stems and leaves), whole black peppercorns along with some other chicken parts that I’ve always got stashed in the freezer. I usually keep a whole chicken or two frozen-as well as some boney wings, necks, backs, etc. (To see me cutting up a chicken in a way that will forever help you to replenish your supply of boney poultry pieces, click here.)

Then cover the contents with cold water (not hot, which is oxygen-deprived and isn’t as fresh-tasting) and add some whole black peppercorns. Bring the whole lot to a bubble, skim off any gray, bubbly scum that rises to the top, which is the impurities from the bones leaching out.

Here is a skimmer…

Here’s how to use it…

(This stuff won’t kill –it’s just not appetizing.)

Then, let the contents of the pot bubble gently, with the cover ajar, for a few hours–

Occassionally adding more vegetables, if you like.

After that, remove the pot from the stove and place on a sturdy wire rack, which will help facilitate cooling. Allow the solids to cool as long as you can, then use a large ladle or a big liquid measure, to strain the solids out of the broth (into a large sieve positioned over a large bowl).

Here (below) is something you never would have had if you threw out the turkey carcass!

Now–you can finally throw away all those solids.

But make sure to close the lid of the garbage!

Be careful–your dog will have an entirley different set of reasons why making stock is extremely valuable!

Now, chill the stock and allow the fat to rise to the top.

Skim off the fat–then ladle the pure stock into freezer containers and store in the freezer.

Now…whenever you or someone you love needs it bad, you can easily make a nurturing soup!

With or without matzo balls.

To watch me make chicken stock, click here. To learn to make an amazing pot of chicken soup, click here.

The Point: Thanksgiving gives us many reasons and ways to celebrate some of life’s most humble, albeit valuable, offerings like love, family, hospitality and friendship. And, choosing to make stock–whether from the bones of a holiday turkey or a weeknight roast chicken is one simple, yet far-reaching way to, at whim, provide more of these same offerings–especially needed and appreciated during the cold winter months. It’s also a way to revisit (and to teach to our 21st century children) the importance of being resourceful–and of living each day on purpose.

Tags: chicken soup, chicken stock, easy turkey stock recipe, how to make turkey stock, what to do with a cooked turkey carcass

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I’ve gotten so many wonderful emails about your pumpkin cooking success that I thought I would keep the ball rolling by showing you something that’s really delicious– that most never even think to do!

Today, you’ll learn how to make shrimp stock; a savory, amber-colored broth made from the shells of fresh shrimp that can be used as an incredibly flavorful (thus valuable) component of rice, soups, stews and sauces. And, the craziest part, most people toss the shells in the garbage! I’m also going to show you how to remove the gritty intestinal vein (to devein) and then to butterfly shrimp, which helps them to curl nicely when they simmer.

By the way, although shelling shrimp is, as you’ll soon see, easy to do yourself, you can ask your fish-monger to do it–But remember, shrimp are usually first weighed with their shells on, so you’re paying for them and have every right to ask to take them home!

OK, first, let’s remove the shells: When you take shrimp home, put them in a colander and rinse them well under cold running water. You’ll need a thin, preferably serrated knife since the jagged edge of the blade helps to easily sever the shell.

Working with one at a time, hold a shrimp in your nonworking hand, tail at the top and outer (larger curved side) of the shell facing out (like below).

Holding your knife handle in your working hand, insert the tip of the serrated blade inside the bottom of the shell (blade facing outward toward the shell–not toward the shrimp flesh). Like this…

Now, while holding firmly onto the shrimp, bring the blade of the serrated knife upward, toward the tail, splitting open the shell as you go. (Only about 1/4 of an inch of the blade should be inserted.)

When you get to the top (the tail) you can either continue, in order to remove it along with the rest, or leave it on–Depending on what you intend to do with the shrimp. (Leaving the tails on, when simmering shrimp in a hearty stew, gives the dish a nice rustic touch.) Pull off the outer shell which will also carry with it the legs that are located in the inner curved portion of the shrimp.

Before you put each shelled shrimp into a bowl, you need to rinse it well (especially where you cut open the shell) since this is where you’ll find the intestinal vein. (By the way, if you don’t devein the shrimp, eating the vein won’t physically kill you–but it’s pretty gross, don’t you think??)

Below is a fully cleaned shrimp (meaning, it’s been shelled and deveined).

So, you’ll accumulate all your shells in one bowl and all the shrimp in another.

At this point, after patting the shrimp dry, you can season and skewer them for the grill or you can chop them to use as part of a stuffing, or anything else that your recipe instructs.

When simmering clams (in a red sauce, for instance) I like to “butterfly” shrimp, which simply means that I take the same knife used to remove the shell and I cut a bit more deeply into that same crevice. Like this…

Here is a perfectly butterflied shrimp.

Now, let’s make shrimp stock.

Rinse the shells under cold water in a sieve.

And drain them well.

Fat or no fat–You have a choice (and I opt for a bit of butta, baby!)

Add a couple of tablespoons of full-butter (not clarified) to a skillet and, when hot and bubbling, add the drained shells. (You can omit the butter and just add the shells to a dry, hot skillet). Stir the shells in the pan until they go from their natural grayish transclucency to…

A deep salmony pink color. Keep sauteeing, over high heat, stirring pretty constantly until the shells begin to caramellize (and here’s where that butter helps because the milk solids candy along with the sugars in the shells (this smells amazing). This step is the equivalent of browning bones (chicken, beef, veal, etc.) before simmering them in liquid.

You can see this caramelization….Look (above) at the bottom of the pan…This brown stuff holds amazing flavor (it’s called “the fond”) and when released with liquid, it leaves the bottom of the pan and goes into the stock (which will happen now).

Add to the pan, cold water to cover the cooked shells along with some aromatic vegetables (carrots, celery, leeks, onions) and whole black peppercorns.

By the way, I always keep a doubled jumbo bag of cut up aromatics in my freezer.

So I’m always ready and able to quickly put a pot of shrimp stock together…

And, since browned shrimp shells offer their goodness so readily to liquid, after just 30 minutes to 1 hour of simmering, drag the pan to a cool burner and allow the solids to cool in the broth.

Then, strain…

Discard the solids and what you have is quite the bowl of deliciousness!

Shrimp stock can be used right away or you can store it in the fridge for a few days, or in tubs in the freezer for several months.

Here are just a few uses….

Here the shrimp stock has been brought to a boil in a pan with sauteed vegetbles and toasted raw rice, to make a rice pilaf …

Here is the rice after simmering…

(A detailed rice lesson is coming…)

You would choose to use shrimp stock in this pilaf when serving a dish that features a complimentary protein. Like this…

Clams and shrimp simmered in a spicy red sauce (detailed blog coming).

Or you can butterfly the shrimp (remember I showed you how about 3 minutes ago) and you can simmer them gently in red sauce (with lots of garlic and basil. Then, you would ladle the piping hot, cooked shrimp (with an ample amount of sauce) into a heatproof dish and then scatter some shreddeed cheese on top. (I mix Italian fontina, mozzarella, parmesan and muenster). Then, just run the dish under a hot broiler until the cheese is all hot and bubbling, and you’ve got yourself an amazing Shrimp Parmesan!

You could serve the above with a side of cooked pasta (angel hair) that’s bathed in some melted butter and hot shrimp stock. Yikes, that’s good!

The Point: Shrimp shells are not just something to throw away. They can be used to create a truly heightened level of flavor in many dishes that feature seafood. I hope today’s lesson has helped you to feel more inspired and able to do so. Please let me know! I’m here for you. Laur..

Tags: how to butterfly shrimp, how to devein shrimp, how to shell shrimp, rice pilaf, shelling fresh shrimp, shrimp and clams fra diavolo, shrimp parmesan, shrimp stock recipe

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It’s pumpkin time again!…. So, since the holidays are just around the corner, now is a great time to get set up for those busy baking days ahead! And, since fresh sugar pumpkins are now so abundant –and since their softer texture and soothing flavor is so wonderful, I thought I would teach you how to stock your freezer with fresh pumpkin puree. That way, when making a recipe that calls for ”pure pumpkin,” you won’t have to always rely on the canned version.

For instance, you can use fresh pumpkin instead of canned when making a pumpkin bread.

And that goes for pumpkin muffins, too!

And even something as amazing as this pumpkin custard torte!

Oh, you can too make this torte!–And I’ll show you how to do it, step by step, on my new television series called “Baking Made Easy with Lauren” which started airing in September on PBS (check individual markets). The show is also launching nationally on We-TV on October 31 at 9 am! The recipe is here, on this site  and also in my cookbook.

Ok, before I show you how to cut, gut and cook fresh pumpkin, you should know that the canned version is not made solely from the orange-skinned sugar pumpkins that you find everywhere at this time of the year. Canned pumpkin uses a combination of the sugar pumpkin and the Hubbard squash–and the latter, which is drier and produces a thicker puree,  usually dominates.

When at the market (or when pumpkin picking), when wanting pumpkins for the purpose of cooking, choose a few small sugar pumpkins. For ease of transporting and cutting, they should be between 2 and 4 pounds. Although I like the smaller ones, everything I’m going to share with you applies to pumpkins of all sizes–even those really big ones–although you might need a buzz-saw to cut it!

Here, each one is about 2 pounds.

A 2 pound pumpkin will yield about 2 rounded cups of cooked puree…

Preheat the oven(s) to 350 to 375 degrees F (350 if using a glass baking dish and 375 if using metal).

Wash your pumpkins and dry them. Insert a sharp 8-inch chef’s knife into the top of the pumpkin, to one side of the stem. Hang on to the handle of the knife (you might want to choke up on the blade a bit) and pull the blade down on that side, toward the bottom.

Do this on the other side, then pull the two halves apart, like this…

Do this with all of the pumpkins…

Pull off and discard the stems. Scoop out the seeds and stringy pulp from the pumpkin halves and put this into a bowl…

Seperate the seeds from the pulp–discard the pulp and rinse the seeds in a sieve.

Set the drained seeds aside for now (but DON’T throw them away!) We’ll do something delish with them in a few minutes.

Cut each pumpkin half, in half again–or, if larger, cut the halves into a more manageable size. Place the pumpkin “quarters” in a baking dish (skin side down).

Add about 1/4 inch of hot water to the dish and cover the dish with aluminum foil (shiny side down. Perforate (make holes or slits) in the foil, using either a skewer, two-prong fork or a knife. Bake for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until the pumpkin is very tender and starting to turn golden…

A short recipe moment…This (above) can be an amazing side dish with roast chicken or roast turkey! Just baste each piece of cut pumpkin on both sides with melted butter and maple syrup. Roast at a higher temperature of 375 degrees F (400F if using metal) for 40-50 minutes (or until just tender), then uncover and baste again with butter and syrup. Continue to roast until the flesh becomes nice and caramelized (this will take another 20 to 30 minutes). Sprinkle lightly with some Kosher salt. Eat up!

Back to the sugar-pumpkin puree: When cool enough to handle, separate the skin from the cooked pumpkin flesh…

Then put the flesh in the food processor fitted with the steel blade and whirl away…

Just right!

Now, use a rubber spatula to transfer the pumpkin puree to a fine-mesh sieve that’s placed over another bowl. Cover the puree loosely with piece of wax paper.

Let the puree sit there for a couple of hours, occasionally pouring out the liquid that accumulates in the bowl beneath. (You’ll be surprised at how much liquid comes out!)

After about 2 hours, all the liquid should have been drained off. Divide the puree into 2 cup increments (which is the equivalent of a 1-pound can of pure, solid-pack pumpkin).

Label and date the containers and refrigerate for a few days or freeze for up to 6 months. To thaw, place in the refrigerator overnight. It’s best to bring the puree to room temperature before using in a recipe or you’ll need to adjust (lengthen) the cooking time accordingly.

Now, back to those pumpkin seeds!

While the pumpkin puree is draining, it’s a perfect time to blanch and roast the un-hulled seeds, which are not only delicious but they’re also a great source of fiber. (BTW: Un-hulled means that the seeds are still in their shells. The shells are not easy to chew, even after roasting, so I blanch them first in rapidly boiling salted water for 4 minutes.)

Don’t be stingy with the salt, here. For 1 1/2 cups seeds, fill a  2 1/2 quart saucepan 3/4 full with water Bring the water to a boil, then add to the pot 1/4 cup salt. Bring the water back to a rolling boil, add the seeds and boil for 4 minutes, uncovered.

Drain the seeds well but don’t attempt to dry them because they will just stick to the towels (trust me…).

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F. Line a shallow baking sheet with nonstick aluminum foil or parchment paper.

Pour the drained seeds into a bowl and toss with some extra-virgin olive oil (or melted butter), Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper and a little cayenne, if desired. Pour the seasoned seeds onto the prepared baking sheet and roast at 300 degrees F until the seeds are golden, crisp and dry, 35 to 60 minutes. Shake the pan occasionally to redistribute. (If wondering why we’re not using a higher temperature, it’s so that the seeds don’t burn on the outsides before they dry on the insides.)

Let the toasted seeds cool completely on their sheet that sits on a wire rack, which will help them to become even crisper.

(If you used butter instead of olive oil, keep leftovers in the fridge–since the milk solids in the butter makes the toasted seeds more perishable. If chilled, reheat briefly in the microwave to liven them up.)

Just delicious–and a perfect nibble when trying to wait for dinner!

So, here’s what we did today…

Fresh sugar-pumpkin puree and also blanched, oven-roasted pepitas!

The Point:  Fresh pumpkins aren’t around all the time. And, although there is absolutely nothing wrong with using canned pumpkin, knowing how to utilize seasonal abundance enables us to make more cooking and baking choices out of strength and understanding. Additionally, choosing to use a fresh ingredient that’s commonly purchased in a can can help to increase the overall  level of creative and nurturing ownership we feel when preparing and sharing foods– Which feels really good!

Tags: fresh pumpkin puree recipe, how to cook fresh pumpkin, how to cook fresh pumpkin seeds, how to make fresh pumpkin puree, roasted pumpkin seed recipe

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Although leaving summer is depressing for some, each year I’m always eager to see this seasonal shift. Like how the first buds on spring-time bushes signify the promise of eventual heat, seeing firm apples either draped on bowed tree limbs, or heaped in paper bags at local farmer’s markets, nudges cooks of all levels to turn the culinary page and embrace an entirely different kind of cinnamon-scented warmth. 

You see, regardless of the time of year, I’ve usually got something in-route to crispness in the oven and/or blipping its way to succulence on the stove–Yes, I make stock, fresh breads, duck confit, stews and homemade pasta–even during the dog-days of summer! Trust me, this is not to be a brat–although I do! get an occassional adolescent surge of defiance when I feel the professional tug to comply with what’s expected–with what’s considered “normal summer cooking.”

But when it comes to apples, things are different. Cooking apples in the fall makes me (and apparently a lot of other rebellious types…) happily comply with a culinary calendar–And it’s this ingredient that, more than any other, for many, initiates the cuisine of autumn. Anyway, since I rarely cook by a strictly-seasonal book –and since this can sometimes make me seem brazen– I think that’s one of the reasons why I feel so happy when the apple-abundant season of fall rolls around. Because “now” –almost everyone that loves to cook and bake seems to be on the same page. (Believe me, wanting to kvell about the many life-enhancing benefits of waking up to the insane aromas from an herb-stuffed pork belly (porchetta) after slow roasting all night long–in August–Well, let’s just say, it can get a little lonely over here…)

Anyway, in the spirit of unity, I thought I would give all you apple-lovers a few things to do in the kitchen…

If you love to bake, THIS APPLE TART IS A MUST….

A Crisp, Apple-Cinnamon Galette

Or, if you’re looking for something savory to slurp, here’s a hearty, yet elegant soup…

An Apple-Scented, Curried Butternut Squash Soup sprinkled with toasted pepitas (so delish!).

Or if you’d like to make a gorgeous, chock-full of chunk, applesauce to serve with your roast chicken…

Here you go…

Here’s what my daughter Jessie requested for breakfast, after waking up to the scent of a fresh batch of applesauce.

Warm applesauce, served alongside oatmeal.

Last weekend’s batch.

And, if you want something smooth and luscious to serve along side a platter of potato latkes…

This version of applesauce (above) is perfectly smooth and made from a wide variety of apples after an amazing day of apple-picking. Here’s my blog that gives a step-by-step illustration of how I made that particular batch, which was probably my best one yet–I also share what I learned,  that day, about the bigger picture of life….And, if you want to learn all about the many different types of apples and also get recipes that celebrate each types uniqueness, here’s a new book, all about it.  

The Point: To me, the sudden appearance of mounds of apples in September signify more than a seasonal change. Their comforting look, smell and taste remind me of their most valuable quality; their simplicity.  People like to complicate and label things–we especially like to label ourselves and others. In terms of cooking, we deem ourselves to be either “good, so-so, brave, scared, lousy, brilliant, brazen or conformist.” We often either claim to “cook but don’t bake” or it’s the other way around.  But, in the world of apples, things are simple.  Though each variety has specific nuances that highlights their individuality–there is a very distinct and common thread that ties them all happily together. 

Whether we leave apples whole and take a shiny bite, or peel, slice and bake them buried in a pie, or simmer them vigorously and mash them to a pulp–all apples are valued for exactly what they are; an entity that has the potential to bring deliciousness to the world. So, no matter what type of apple you are, I want you to know that you’re also filled with delicious potential. (And, if anyone reading wants to share notes about the gorgeous “crackling” song-sung as a  fresh, crusty loaf cools, we must be from the same heap. I’m just an email away!…)

Tags: apple tart, apples, applesauce, books about apples, butternut squash soup, cooking apples, latkes and applesauce

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Jon and I were coming back from our usual morning walk with Mango and as we approached our house we smelled a wood-fire burning.

Now, I know, I know….most people would be more than a bit un-nerved, seeing that we were out of the house and, when we left, our grown kids were sleeping on a lazy Labor Day morning. 

But that’s not how things seem to work in our house.

Anyway…instead of going into the house through the usual front door, we followed the scent–and went into the backyard through the side.

And…low and behold (not surprisingly) there he was!

My son Benjamin was standing in front of a fully fired up grill–

He was roasting a bread fruit over direct flame (no–actually– IN the flames) in our barbecue, using hardwood (at 10 am in the morning!).

When I saw him I remembered that, the day before, Ben brought this–this odd looking thing into the kitchen. I actually took a picture of it because I had never seen it before.

See, my son Ben loves everything about Jamaica–especially their cuisine–so he’s always shopping at West Indian markets so he can cook their native ingredients. To say he loves to cook is an understatement–and his absolute favorite way to cook is using wood, over open flames.

Maybe it’s partly because he evolved in a home where he experienced cooking as anything but a wussy sport! It wasn’t uncommon for my kids to come down the stairs on a random winter day and see me basting chickens as they would roast (in the fireplace!), using a home-made, slow-twirling, string-spit-concoction. SO MUCH FUN!

And here (below) I’m tending the fire in our wood burning oven….(Truly an athletic experience!)

And just this weekend, on Saturday night, Ben helped me maneuver a 2 foot wide paella pan (no joke–the pan covered four burners!).

The next night (Sunday) I cooked polipo (young octopus). I bought them at Randazzo’s my favorite seafood market on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx.

Aesthetically-speaking (be forwarned) polipo is certainly not for the faint-hearted, but this has never bothered Ben.   

Here they are, after cooking at a brisk simmer (covered) in a pot of vegetable broth for 45 minutes–they then were allowed to cool in the broth…Oh, and don’t panic–The poaching liquid is supposed to turn dark purple.

I drained them…  

 Then I used paper towels to gently pull off the outer skin and fat layer (this takes several paper towels). Expect many of the suction cups to come off, too. (This is good.)

Then I cut up the flesh which is now so tender…

See–it doesn’t look so scary anymore!

Then I added some chopped vegetables…

(Celery, jicama, sweet onion, roasted red pepper, pitted oil-cured olives, chives and jalapeno)

And tossed the whole thing with a perky vinaigrette –and then stuck it in the fridge to chill.  

That same day, Ben came into the kitchen and saw that I was about to wrap whole red snappers in leaves from our fig trees.

 The fish are seasoned with extra-virgin olive oil, minced garlic, fresh herbs (thyme, oregano, chives and Italian parsley) and Kosher salt and fresh black pepper).

So, Ben requested that I put some chopped scallions, hot finger peppers and a squeeze of fresh lime juice underneath and on top of each fish (before enclosing them in the leaves)…So, I did!

Ben helped me tie the leaves around the fish with kitchen twine. (He rinsed the strings in water first, to keep them from charring on the grill–such a smart young man…) I chilled them –and took them out of the fridge about 30 minutes before they would go onto the grill.

I filled two chimney starters with hard-wood charcoal and stuffed the bottom with crumpled newspapers (I don’t stuff too tight or it becomes too hard for the paper to ignite the coals–there needs to be some air in there to help feed the fire once you light the paper on fire).

Once I saw flames at the top of the starters, I dumped the coals out onto the grill (underneath the grate)–this usually takes 15 to 20 minutes after fully igniting the paper. I put the grate down and allowed it to get good and hot–then I waited for it to calm down a bit (about 30 minutes after lowering the grate over the hot coals, I was ready to sear the fish).

Just before laying the fish on hot grate, using long tongs, I swabbed the grate liberally with a towel dipped in some vegetable oil (I used a towel that I don’t care about–for obvious reasons). 

I seared the fish over direct heat (the outsides of the leaves should also be brushed with some of the same seasoning mixture used for the fish).

The fish sear for a few minutes, then they get turned (brush some more of the seasoning mixture on top before turning)…

Then they sear well on the second side, then get moved to a cooler part of the grill (to now be cooked using in-direct heat). Yes, the leaves are supposed to become nice and charred –this is what releases their unique flavor onto the fish (and into the air!).

Once the fish are repositioned, the lid goes down–but not all the way. (I stick a piece of wood under the lid so that it doesn’t close fully–it should have an opening that’s about 2 1/2 inches–

If you have vents, just open them, forget the wood).

This next part is determined by the size of the fish, the intensity of the heat and the internal temperature of the fish when it goes onto the grill…This time, for me, after searing on both sides, was about 15 minutes (covered) –They were perfect…

Ta-dah!

Beyond delish–At the table, we  cut off the strings, divided the fish (each one was between 1 1/3 to 1 1/2 pounds–three fish fed the 5 of us-generously (especially since I also served the polipo salad and some other stuff)–6 would be fed adequately).

We just peeled back the leaves, which revealed the most succulent fish flesh–loaded with flavor! And, Ben was right! The added aromatics made both the taste and texture more savory and diverse.

So, back to Ben in the back yard, cooking a bread fruit over a wood fire (not sure if I need to remind you that it’s 10 am on Labor Day…)

We looked closer to see what he was up to…

He started here…

He nestled the fruit in the fire …and he let it cook.

And cook…The entire cooking process took about 1 1/2 hours–He kept turning it with tongs until completely blackened and the fruit became tender, which is what makes it edible.

I’m talking really BLACKENED!

Once Ben deemed it “done” he took it off the grill and threw it onto the grass until it was just cool enough to handle, then he hacked it in half with this “major” knife.

 He brought it into the kitchen and cut it–removing the blackened skin and nudging the flesh off the central pit.

Ben tasted it while still hot….Just look at him work that knife!

I tasted it too–It was really good! The taste is a combination of a potato and a chestnut (delicious)–with a consistency that’s a bit like home-insulation (that last part I could do without).

Here, we’re making pasta together….Dat-sah-my-boy!!

The point: I’ve never pushed cooking on my children. I always trusted that if I cooked and baked from a genuinely loving, playful and curious place–then they would naturally gravitate toward the kitchen; toward the ability to create joy. Now, as a mother, seeing Ben (my eldest) so happily and so deliberately shop, schlep, chop, knead, sear, simmer and bake–my love and gratitude for my kitchen has deepened. This special room has helped my grown children to nurture themselves and those that they bring into their own homes and hearts, as adults. As a parent, there is nothing that could make me happier. (Well…maybe a wedding??…)

Tags: bread fruit, cooking bread fruit, cooking octopus, cooking polipo, grilled red snapper recipe, hearth cooking, polipo recipe, whole red snappers wrapped in fig leaves

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I was literally aching to make challah this weekend. I skipped a few weeks and I was craving the eggy, buttery, milky, yeasty aroma and taste. So, since I knew the kids would be around, I decided to shape my usual dough into three 8 x 4 inch sandwich loaves instead of my more usual braided loaves.

I wanted to make two loaves with seeded tops (for toast and for sandwiches) and one specifically for French toast (no seeds). The fully risen loaves that  get seeds first get swabbed liberally with an egg-wash (before the seeds go on top)–And the one for French toast gets slathered, both before and after baking, with melted butter. Yum.

In case you’re wondering…

Buttering a loaf before and after baking is the way to get a really nice supple (soft and tender) yet still golden crust. Using a beaten egg (with an extra yolk or two) will give the tops a rich, crisp, shiny finish–especially when the egg is given a small splash of water–Adding milk to the egg, on the other hand, will create more of a matt finish–Adding an extra yolk will create an even deeper outer hue. The glaze also acts as a glue for a seeded top. It’s all great –just personal preference.  Anyway,  when using an egg glaze, I suggest straining it after combining the egg with your choice of liquid. This helps to homogenize the two textures (the white and the yolk) making it less gloppy, thus easier to apply with a pastry brush. Allowing the glaze to sit out at room temperature for a while also helps.

Here are two of the loaves just before baking–One glazed with egg plus 2 yolks and a small splash of water…

Above, one loaf is glazed and then striped with sesame and poppy seeds. The other one is brushed with melted butter).

Just out of the oven…Can you detect the subtle differences in the color of the top of these?…Most of the difference is experienced as textural.

Here’s a broader view…

I’m sure you can see why I was craving this amazing bread…My kids love it–Jon loves it and I’m sure if Mango could get her paws on a loaf, she would love it too… 

The Point: My ache to bake is not just about taste. Knowing that the people I love have enjoyed this bread for so many years helps me, as a nurturer, to be the one that connects my family to a wonderful part of the past–while at the same time, making our “present” so special! Plus, the entire bread-making process is  just so much fun…truly.

So, if you’ve never made bread before, I truly hope you’ll make challah your first!–You certainly don’t need to go very far to get the recipe since it’s right here!  You’ll learn how to make both sandwich loaves and a beautiful 6-strand braid like this…

And, to watch the entire process, my new baking series for TV is about to be born (coming this fall!!)–Stay tuned…

Tags: challah bread from scratch, challah bread recipe, challah dough, challah recipe, how to make an egg glaze, making braided loaves, making homemade bread, sandwich loaves, shaping sandwich loaves

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Because vitello tonnato is a specialty of the Piedmont region, this dish was on every menu in every restaurant we visited all through our trip. Having said that, it was only one extremely random and casual eatery that had me driven to make it myself as soon as I got back home–so random that I don’t remember the name of it–bummer. Anyway, I’ve made Vitello tonnato lots of times in a very short time since I’ve been back and so far everyone goes crazy for it–I hope you will, too!

 Vitello tonnato is roast veal that’s chilled, sliced paper thin–and served surrounding a generous dollop of tonnato sauce, which is made mostly from canned Italian tuna (packed in olive oil), anchovies and a homemade mayo. After that–each person has their own rendition–adding things like capers and minced fresh garlic. I’ve made mine with those additions–as well as a few others–that makes this sauce extra savory and delicious.

Here is what the dish looks like –and it’s the picture of the first time I made it (the day after getting home from Italy!).

Quite the home-run, if I do say so myself–(although, since this first time, as already mentioned, I’ve added a few savory accoutrements–but we’ll get to that in a minute).

Let’s start with the meat. In Italy, the cut is different than what I can get here in NY. The meat used by many of the restaurants (in Monforte d’Alba) is from a small shop run by a fabulous butcher named “Bruno Ruddolo”–he’s one of the absolute sweetest men I’ve ever met.

Here’s Bruno…

 In addition to being a very trusted (busy) butcher, he’s also an artisan cheese maker–

This (above) is Bruno’s delicious cheese –one of the ones he’s most proud of–it’s made with Barolo wine, from the Nebbiolo grape, which is native to Piedmont.

The meat used for vitello tonnato, in Italy, seemed to be a much larger slab–than the more petite veal tenderloins I use in NY. But Bruno’s meat was impeccable –Here is the meat from Bruno’s shop.

Below is a picture of what veal tenderloin that I get in the US –On this particular night, since I was cooking for a crowd, I needed two. These (below) are about 2 pounds each, and each which will feed 6, when sliced very thin.

Unless you have an ethnic Italian neighborhood near you, you’ll need to special order veal tenderloin. I get mine at Peter’s Meat Market, on Arthur Avenue, in the Bronx. They freeze well so it’s a great thing to have on hand–just thaw it in the refrigerator overnight.

So, (drum roll pleeese….!) here’s my rendition of vitello tonnato–which, I really do think is the best version yet!

Line a baking sheet (two if making two fillets) with aluminum foil, then top the foil with a sheet of parchment paper (preferably unbleached parchment). Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

 Season the veal with salt and pepper–then rub the seasonings into the meat with some extra-virgin olive oil. Add a couple of tablespoons of olive oil into a large skillet and heat the pan, over high heat.

Sear the veal on all sides, turning it with tongs, then remove the meat to a plate. Dump out any oil from the pan, then put it back over high heat and deglaze the pan with 1/3 to 2/3 cup of red wine–use 1/3 cup wine for each fillet being seared (a Dolcetto or Nebbiolo is a great choice!) and reduce it to half it’s original volume (it will be syrupy). Place each seared fillet on the prepared baking sheet and drizzle the reduced wine over the fillet–along with any accumulated meat juices from the plate.

Place the veal into the preheated 325F oven and roast until an instant meat thermometer reaches 130F (stick the stem of the thermometer into the top of the thickest spot –until the tip reaches the center–the dial will quickly register the temperature), around 30 minutes, after the initial sear–but start checking at 25 minutes. (The roasting time will depend largely on the girth of the meat and the initial temperature of the meat before searing. Avoid overcooking!)

Remove the meat from the oven and, soon after (while still warm), roll the meat up (with any juices) in the paper and foil, then chill for at least 2 hours–to make the meat easier to slice. (Roasting can be done a day ahead of serving)

While the meat cools, make the tonnato sauce, which combines ingredients that are just to die for! (As, Rudston, our wonderful guide would say ”la morte sua!!”)

For the tonnato sauce, you’ll need:

• 3 extra-large egg yolks, made tepid (Submerge the whole egg in the shell in a bowl of hot tap water for 15 minutes. Separate the yolk from the white and reserve the whites for another purpose.)
• 2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice
• 1  to 1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 4 anchovy fillets, drained and chopped (if salted, rinse well and pat dry)
• ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Vegetable oil (flavorless) as needed to reach 2/3 cup (after first adding the extra-virgin olive oil to the cup)
• One 5-ounce can Italian tuna, packed in olive oil, undrained
• 3 scallions, chopped (remove roots and use all of the white and only 1 ½ to 2 inches of the tender green)
• 1 tablespoon drained capers, chopped, plus more for garnish, if desired
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Extra sliced scallion greens, or chives, for garnish

Put yolks into the bowl of a food processor with the lemon juice, mustard, garlic and anchovies. Process until homogeneous. Slowly, while the machine is on, drizzle in the combined oils. When done, the mixture should be emulsified and should look like a soft mayo.

Add the tuna with the oil from the can, the scallions, capers and black pepper. Process, by pulsing, until smooth. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

To serve, lay the thinly sliced meat (very thin) on the sides of a plate (so it looks like carpaccio) and spoon some of the sauce into the center. Place some thinly sliced red and yellow roasted peppers on the open sides of the plate (sometimes I’ll add some sliced, pitted calamata or oil-cured olives and a little extra-virgin olive oil to the peppers). Garnish the sauce with some snipped chives or scallion greens and a few more whole capers, if desired. (If you want a thinner sauce, you can stir in a tablespoon or so of water–but the consistency I’m showing you is how it’s done in Piedmont and how I like it best.)

Ta-dahhhh! (Leftover veal stays good for several days in the fridge– Try to slice only what you need since unsliced meat always keeps better (for longer). Also, leftover tonnato sauce is a great dip for raw vegetables and hot, freshly broiled slices of garlic toast.

Tags: authentic Italian recipes, canned tuna recipes, cooking with Italian canned tuna, veal tenderloin recipe, vitello tonnato recipe

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