Duck confit (preserved duck) is, similar to chicken, beef and veal stock, something that I don’t like to be without. Not that we eat it often but, like stock that’s perfectly happy to sit in the freezer–duck confit (pronounced “con-fee”) is perfectly happy to wait in the refrigerator until someone in the house gets a hankering (usually that’s me).

To make confit (to “confit” anything) is to simmer something completely submerged in fat and then store whatever you’ve cooked in the fat used to cook it. Fat is non-porous so, once congealed, the food cooked (protein or vegetable) is much less susceptible to oxidation (which causes spoilage) which is why making confit is an Old-World form of cookery, used often when refrigeration wasn’t possible.

So, you might be saying to yourself “there’s no problem with refrigeration these days, Lauren, so why, in such health-conscious times would anyone want to cook with all that duck fat?”

It’s simple. Because anyone with a discerning palate knows that duck confit is one of the most delicious and satisfying foods in the world. And, by the way, most of the fat stays on the outside–it just bathes the meat, keeping it succulent throughout cooking and keeping.  

So, without further adieu, let’s make duck confit!

First you need to order duck legs (raw) which is actually the most challenging part! Getting your hands on fresh duck legs is difficult, even when shopping online. Although I get my duck fat at D’Artagnan, they don’t sell raw duck legs. (You can get duck legs already cooked in fat, but that’s not at all the point of this blog which is to teach you how to make a FAR better version (in both taste and texture) than what you can buy (trust me, here…). I’m lucky enough to have a fabulous butcher (Dom) who orders them for me.  

Although you can make a small batch of duck confit, since they stay so well in the fridge, I suggest making a larger batch (8 to 12 legs at one time). You’ll also need plenty of duck fat, so either get this from your butcher or order it online, which is easy.

Once you have the duck legs, the first step is to cure them for 1 or 2 days in the refrigerator (I usually do it for two days). This imparts deep flavor into the meat and skin.

Once the legs are in your possession, rinse and dry them. For 8 to 12 legs, assemble these ingredients (for a smaller batch, just halve the ingredients)…

• 16 cloves, minced
• 1/2 cup Kosher salt
• 3 tablespoons minced fresh thyme leaves
• 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
• 4 large shallots, minced (about 2/3 cup)
• 1 tablespoon onion powder
• 8 to 12 large raw duck legs, either Muscovy, Moulard or Long Island Pekin)

1) To season duck legs and chill: Mash the minced garlic with some of the salt, using the blade of a chefs knife until it’s paste-like. Add this to a nonreactive bowl and combine with the minced thyme, pepper, shallots, onion powder and remaining salt. Place the duck legs in a nonreactive dish or bowl and rub the seasoning mixture all over both sides of each leg. Cover and chill for 1 day or up to 2 days.

You’ll need 14 to 16 containers of duck fat to accomodate 8 to 12 legs. Here’s what the container looks like…

I really do mean, you’ll need at least 14 containers for 8 to 12 legs…

I usually keep mine in the freezer until it’s time to make duck confit. Then, the night before, I thaw it in the fridge.

You’ll also need:

• 24 cloves of garlic, peeled and kept whole
• 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes
• 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• 2 sprigs fresh rosemary

2) To simmer duck legs: Take legs out of the refrigerator 30 minutes to 1 hour before simmering. Then, using paper towels, wipe off most of the seasoning mixture. Melt the duck fat in an 8 to 10-quart, heavy bottomed pot (for a small batch, using 4 legs, melt the fat in a 12-inch, deep-sided skillet), over medium-low heat. Add the duck legs, the whole garlic cloves, the crushed pepper flakes, peppercorns and sprig of each, thyme and rosemary. The fat should cover the duck legs completely. Attach a deep-fry thermometer to the side of the skillet so the bottom of the mercury tip rests above the bottom of the pan, about half-way down the depth of the fat. (I actually use two thermometers, just to make sure the temperature is accurate.) Reduce the heat to very low.

Over low heat, bring the oil up to 190F, uncovered (which will take at least 1 hour), then continue to cook, uncovered, for 2 to 2 ½ hours, trying to maintain a temperature of 200F and never higher than 210F. (I like mine to stay between 190F and 200F.) The fat should only produce the smallest amount of movement. If bubbling, the temperature is too high which can make the meat stringy.) If you don’t have serious control over the heat generated by your burners, you’ll need to use a flame tamer.

As the duck cooks, impurities will rise to the surface of the pot. Use a skimmer to remove this, occasionally.

Although you can wait until the end of the cooking process to remove this film of impurities, because it acts like a skin on the top of the fat, this becomes quite insulating and can cause the temperature of the fat to rise abruptly–so it’s best to occasionally pull this stuff off the top using a fine-mesh skimmer… 

At this point, the duck meat should be very tender. Pull the pan to a cool burner and allow the duck and fat to cool to just warm.

Then, lift out the cooked duck legs and place them in a large rectangular plastic container (one that comes with a tight fitting lid). Strain the fat through a fine-mesh sieve into another large bowl, trapping the solids and stopping before you get to the duck juices at the bottom of the pot. Dump out the solids (although I usually save the garlic which is amazing spread on crusty bread. Strain the fat once more directly into the container holding the cooked duck. Shimmy the fat and legs gently, making sure they are all completely submerged…

Once cool, attach the lid and store in the refrigerator. Once cold, this is what it looks like inside.

To retrieve the duck, you’ll need to let the fat soften a bit (about an hour at a comfortable room temperature), then pry through the fat, being careful not to break up the meat. Use your clean fingers to feel your way around and take out as many legs as you want. …

Then, smooth the fat out, so that it looks as it did before…

 Now–to the best part–Crisping the duck!

Heat a dark, heavy pan until hot, over low-medium heat (a shallow, seasoned cast iron fajitas pan is best). Sear the duck, skin side down, and sear slowly, allowing any excess fat to render out. Carefully pour this fat into a heatproof bowl (this is why the shallow pan is best, so you won’t have to tilt the pan at such a deep angle–which makes it more likely to make the legs fall out!–if all you have is a deeper cast iron pan, remove the legs to a tray, then dump out the fat and put the legs back in the pan). Turn the legs and brown on the other side. Turn again, skin side down, and place a lid over the top to heat through. Uncover and turn again, skin side up. Dump out any more fat from the pan. When the meat is hot and the exterior is golden and crisp, it’s time to eat!

Since duck confit is rich, I like to serve it with a main-dish salad or with some stewed sweet and sour red cabbage and roast potatoes (roll some halved red potatoes in some of the melted duck fat and roast at 400F until the interiors are tender and the exterior golden and crisp).

The Point: If you’ve lasted this long, reading all the way through this process, I figure you’re someone that might actually make duck confit at home. I hope so. Let me know!

Tags: crisp duck confit recipe, duck confit recipes, homemade duck, how to make duck confit

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Although one might wonder, in the 21 th century, why anyone would make their own duck confit–those that have done it know why–Because it’s so meltingly succulent with skin that’s so crisp and savory –that the cook (after serving this) feels like they’ve driven themselves and those at the table to another planet–one that’s friendly yet alluring–Old-World yet swanky–incredibly soothing yet unbelievably sexy. So, since I’m about to replenish my supply, I thought I would take you all along with me. Buckle up and stay posted!

Tags: Duck confit

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It’s becoming comical how, after all these years–after writing cookbooks, hosting television and radio shows–after working with culinary giants like Julia Child, I’m still just NEVER over it! Creating in my kitchen brings me such awesome feelings–literally–when doing everything, but especially when baking.

Sometimes I think my computer will explode from all the food pictures–Especially because so many of them are duplicates–

For example, I must have about 4,000 pictures of my pane di casa-

And here’s my latest picture of what I served for dessert last night for dinner guests…

One of about 1,000 photos of this crisp and glistening  Apple-Cinnamon Galette.

And yesterday, while my French rolls were rising, I couldn’t resist re-capturing their pudgyness.

 I shaped half of the dough into ovals and the other half into rounds…

And then, before slipping them into a very hot oven, I just HAD to quickly shoot them after slashing and snipping their tops (for the gazillionth time)…

As they baked, I (as usual) stood by the oven waiting for the buzzer to sound so I could finally get to see (and photograph) what their beyond-belief aromas promised– 

And, as the rolls sat perched on wire racks, their audible crackling sounds was like hearing a favorite song–but better– because this song was played “in person” and not on the radio– which (of course, once again) compelled me to wobble on a footstool, camera in hand, to give them the rock star status they deserve.

And, last week, these freshly baked pumpkin breads (recipe coming…) actually made me gasp –not just because of their beauty…

but also because I knew how the addition of plumped dried currants and chopped, butter-toasted pepitas would elevate the taste of the loaves…

And that goes for the muffins, too! (This new recipe will, no doubt, be photographed over and over again…)

The Point: Although it might seem silly to keep taking pictures of the same recipe, it seems much sillier to give up any opportunity to personally experience (and to instigate in others) the feeling of awe. I hope I’m never “over it.”

Tags: apple tart, baking bread, crusty bread, French rolls, I love to bake, I love to cook, pumpkin bread, pumpkin muffins, the joy of baking

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I know, I know–I have (once again) fallen off the blogging band-wagon! Thank you, to those that have written asking “where the heck are you?!”

This summer has been amazing–and it’s all been about family. Although I know it’s just August, sadly, I can feel summer leaving. Not only has one of my daughters (Julie) just departed from her month-long time with us here at home (she’s working for her doctorate in clinical psychology in San Francisco) but my eldest, my son (Ben), recently left for Bangladesh (of all places!) for business. And, my youngest (Jessie) is gearing up to soon begin her last year of graduate school to become an art-therapist –while also maintaining a rigorous work schedule. So, although this summer I’ve had some of the best and most loving times with Jon and my kids, I’m more than a bit bummed to feel the physical scattering. There have been so many delicious things for us all to remember…

Here are some scrumptious “homemade highlights” from summer, 2010…

Jules, Me and Jess 

Benjamin taking a snooze on the grass.

The kids playing soccer in the yard.

Mango Margaritas!

Jules, Jess, Jen (Ben’s wonderful girlfriend.)

My wood-burning oven, all seasoned and I’m ready to cook!

Here, I’m cooking butterflied chickens with a medly of fresh herbs from the garden, olive oil, minced garlic, Kosher salt and fresh-cracked black pepper. The chickens cook covered loosely with foil–that way, they brown beautifully while keeping the meat succulent. When the fire is prepared properly, the chickens cook in the same amount of time it takes to cook in a conventional oven.

Hot out of the oven–A mixed berry double crust pie.

The pie didn’t last long…

Potato Gnocchi–made to celebrate Jen’s birthday.  Oh, don’t worry–A detailed blog is coming about how to make this. 

I actually made gnocchi twice for Jen and Ben. Once for her birthday (June 24th) …

 Jen’s birthday cake.

And I made gnocchi again, when Julie and Jessie were at the table to celebrate Jen’s birthday as a family.

This is a berry free-form tart—Ben said it was the best dessert he’d ever had!

A “No-Knead” Bread that I’ve been working on…

“Work” is SO satisfying!

Wouldn’t you like to relax like this? Mango might seem like she’s sleeping–but (trust me)  if I took out a vegetable peeler, she’d immediately run and stand by my side. She loves vegetables–She’s a Lab.–she’d eat a can.

Here are two focaccia’s I made with my daughter, Julie. They had fresh tomato wedges, pitted olives (two kinds, oil-cured and kalamata) and small fluted rounds of zucchini. The shaped dough was swabbed (both before and just after baking) with extra-virgin olive oil, lots of fresh herbs from the garden, garlic, crushed red pepper flakes and black pepper. Mama Mia!

A Mixed Berry, Peach and Banana Crisp–I served this with creme fraiche that I whisked with some superfine sugar and vanilla.

My fig trees, netted to protect the fruit from nature’s little thieves.

Hey, it’s my tree–I’m allowed to pick the fruit!

The neighborhood always knows when I’m up to something good…

Fig leaves, fresh picked just after the rain (I have a reason.)

Fig leaves, doubled and seasoned with salt and pepper. (I really do have a reason.)

Branzino laying on seasoned fig leaves. (My reason.)

Mango is happily on “Branzino watch” while I check the grill…

When the charred fig leaves are peeled back (at the table) the reward is THE MOST SUCCULENT, DELICIOUS fish imaginable. Beyond good–

An assortment of heirloom cherry tomatoes, seasoned with olive oil, herbs, salt and pepper and ready to be roasted in a very hot oven (450F) for 20 minutes. This, then, gets poured over freshly cooked spaghetti that goes into a pan with crisp pancetta–and then the whole thing (the pasta, pancetta, roasted tomatoes with all their seasonings and juices get’s tossed with lots of fresh basil leaves, cut into ribbons).

Plain and flavor-all braided challah. I purposely made this two-loaf dough externally different. One was a “flavor-all,” which we ate with dinner on a Friday night–the other one (plain) was in case I had any “French toast” requests over that weekend. 

 Blueberry Muffins with a Sugar-Nut Topping

Heaven on a plate: Rotisserie chicken on the outdoor grill. Purposely made for our dinner on Julie’s last night home (before heading back to San Francisco) –The gentle, gorgeous outdoor wafts of these chickens spit-roasting surely spells love.

The Point: I thought I’d let you see why I haven’t been able to blog this summer. Sometimes it’s just impossible to write about life without sacrificing the literal things to do to create the yummy, loving life one wants. So, for me, living will always come first–and writing next. I’m always here, though. Just an email away! xoxo Lauren

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It’s so amazing how,  in the 21st century, I’m immediately filled with the feeling of romance simply by opening my fridge and gazing up at…

a bowl of fresh picked figs from my back yard. Beyond delicious, my devotion to growing figs has a story–as does most of what fuels me in my kitchen.

So, a fig story is coming soon–just waiting to be able to make Fig Jam.

Laur..

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Today, when passing my “set” dinner table, I saw that the roses that I clipped just yesterday had released a lot of petals. One by one, as I picked them up, their intense fragrance captured me, as if each one contained the magnificence of the whole flower. So, instead of throwing the petals away, I decided to put my bud-vase on a coaster and then surround the base with all the fallen petals.  

Doing this not only bought me another day, without having to clip more flowers, but it also made my table more beautiful and seemingly twice as fragrant–Becoming present to these fallen petals deepened my understanding of the overall potency–and power for flowers (especially roses) to provide sensory pleasure.

The Point: Just like when we’re about to shrug off a “person of years” (or some really ripe, speckled bananas) if we take the time to stop, rethink and open up–that’s often when some of life’s most unexpected gifts are revealed.

Tags: fresh roses on the table, how to extend the life of a fresh rose centerpiece, what to do with rose petals

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Being my dentist. 

No joke, just ask my mother– Trust me, this is something she would remember.

All throughout my childhood, poor (aptly named) “Dr. Silver” would end our appointments MUCH more silver-haired than he was at the beginning. Literally having to chase me around the dental chair (his breath reaking of Luden’s licorice-flavored cough drops)–I would shreak the same way I would when my mother would come at me with a comb after washing my waste-length hair (these were the days before the invention of cream-rinse or conditioner–so don’t judge me harshly until you’ve experienced this nightmare yourself). 

Anyway, the doctor would beg (I mean beg) my mother to ”pleease” take me to another dentist–but no, Dr. Siver was stuck with me.  

The only thing worse than being my dentist is being my husband either before or after I visit the dentist–especially if it was like today–when I HAD to go because this past weekend, when having a grand-old time at a wedding, my back tooth split in half and I had to spit it out into my napkin (lovely, I know).

Here’s the $64,000 question: How does someone break a tooth while eating quinoa??

So, I went to see my dentist today and I just felt so badly since she happens to be the MOST WONDERFUL dentist–actually she’s one of the kindest, most gentle, caring people I’ve ever met…and the poor thing is the lucky dentist that’s now stuck with me. (No, I didn’t make her chase me but I was shaking (quaking) like Mango does before she gets her yearly shots)… I kept trying to snap myself out of it by reminding myself (internally) “Lauren, there are people enduring chemo therapy!” Oh, today I was a mess–it’s so embarrassing.

Then, poor Jon–When I got home–he answered the door (and, after seeing me leave the house this morning all bent out of shape in fear) I could see him looking at me–wondering if I was going to snarl or smile.

Can you guess?

So, I did what I always do when I need to feel better. I started to cook…and cook…and cook. I even decided to make a celebration birthday cake since we’ve got a birthday girl on June 24! (Oh please, you already know that, two blogs back, I spoiled the gnocchi surprise–And, anyway, in this family, this particular cake is not ever a surprise–after all these years, it’s considered a birth-right.   

So, what did I learn today?

1) It’s not easy to be strong when you have people putting needles into your gums.

2) Using ones bare hands to crush Oreo cookies is EXTREMELY therapeutic when feeling unraveled.

3) My husband still loves me, even after being a brat. I’m a lucky girl.

Tonight’s din-din: grilled whole fish, fresh vegetables and garlic toast. I’m looking forward to being able to chew! 

To read my blog on how to make the ice cream cake, click here. And, click here for to see the video and here, for the printable recipe.

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Yesterday, I got home late in the afternoon–Jon and I were planning to go out for dinner since I’ve been cooking like a maniac all throughout the holiday weekend and beyond…. As soon as I got home I learned that Mango, my dog, had quite a hard day–Her birthday was the day before (her fourth) and, apparently, she was too much of a party girl!–To help her celebrate we (OK, I) gave her a HUGE beef knuckle (one of those gross dark-bony-crispy-smoked things that looks like it came from a dinosaur–a heavenly site to a dog).  Mango opened her jaws wider than ever before and, as she finally latched down on it and ran into the yard with a crazed look of glee–my intuition spoke–”we’re all going to pay for this.”   

Sheesh. I was right.       

Anyway, Mango ended up with a really bad case of the runs (which she had all day long, both IN and out of the house). Not a pretty picture. I tried to give her plain boiled rice but she wasn’t interested–Then I really got worried. Mango has NEVER refused food–ever. I called the Vet and was instructed: “don’t give her any food at all–wait to see what happens over night.”    

So, after spending A LOT of time with Mango in the back yard (over and over again) I knew I couldn’t leave her to go out to dinner. Jon was also somewhere “out there” at a golf tournament and called to say he was in the midst of a rain-delay–so I had no idea what (or when) dinner would be.   

I wanted something easy, cheesy (soothing) and flexible in terms of timing. I decided to make pizza. Since it was late, I thought I would go to the neighborhood pizza shop and pick up a dough–but, then it started to rain (I mean POUR–along with thunder and lightening–) So, I had to rethink things. It was now six o’clock.   

It’s certainly not that I was opposed to putting up my own pizza dough–It just never occured to me that I could, should, would make a yeast dough at 6 pm and end up with a great-tasting pizza crust–in such a short time. (Thus, the reason why I’m writing this blog…). My pizza was SO DELICIOUS!!   

It only took me 10 minutes, from start to finish, to make the dough. I divided it, and formed two taut rounds and placed each on it’s own shallow baking sheet that was first generously brushed with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkled with freshly cracked black pepper. 

I covered one sheet with a kitchen towel (that one was to be for our dinner) and the other I covered with a towel and then plastic wrap (over the towel) and put it in the fridge (That one is for tomorrow’s dinner, when I’ll turn it into focaccia.  

I’ll bet you didn’t know you can do that!…   

Here’s what a Focaccia (made with pizza dough)  looks like before baking …   

Here (above) the chilled dough is allowed to rise on a bakers peel that’s heavily doused with a mixture of cornmeal and white flour (rubbed into the peel), then the dough was brushed with a fresh-herb-garlic-oil and allowed to rise until billowy (at least 2 hours for a well-chilled pizza dough). The oven gets preheated to 450F for at least 30 minutes (preferably longer) –I use the convection mode. 

(Note: This dough is on the sticky side–especially after having risen on the peel. If not experienced working with a baker’s peel, I suggest allowing the dough to rise on a square of parchment paper, first brushed or sprayed with extra-virgin olive oil and then sprinkled with cornmeal (and why not add some sesame seeds?!). Then, just slide the dough (with the parchment) onto the hot stone. By the way, when using parchment to bake artisan breads, use the unbleached kind–it’s darker color will encourage more heat retention by the dough–thus a darker color. Expect the paper to become charred.  Just discard it after baking.) 

Then, once risen, instead of poking the dough (to give a focaccia a traditional dimpled look) I just planted halved heirloom cherry tomatoes (cut sides up) into the dough. I gave the top a light application of Kosher salt and black pepper then slid the dough onto a hot pizza stone (with steam) for 18 to 20 minutes. Then, I opened the oven and carefully sprinkled the top with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and baked for another 3 to 5 minutes.   

Here’s the Focaccia after baking:   

Then, immediately upon leaving the oven, I brushed the top of the Focaccia with more of the herb-garlic-olive oil mixture (actually, I had added just a bit of lemon zest, which gave the finish a nice perky taste-but that’s optional and only one of a gazillion ways to flavor/season focaccia).   

Anyway, (so sorry to deviate).  Back to my impromptu pizza…   

I preheated the oven to 500F (I always keep a pizza stone in my oven) with a cast iron skillet on the rack underneath (this is how I create steam–just before shoving the raw, shaped pizza onto the hot stone, I place about 6 ice cubes with a tiny bit of water into the hot skillet–then shut the door, go get the peel with my pizza–open the door and slide the pizza into a steamy oven, on a very hot pizza stone).   

For my topping (on the pizza) I used some of the leftover marinara sauce from the night before.   

Anyway, with the pizza dough made and rising at room temperature, the sauce in a bowl, I went through the fridge to see what else I could use for my dinner. I found some sliced mushrooms, peeled garlic, marinated long-stemmed artichokes, roasted red and yellow peppers, cleaned lettuce, hot soprassata and (of course) a hunk of Parmigiano Reggiano–and some shredded cheese (muenster and mozzarella). Needless to say, I had more than enough to make a delish impromptu din-din: A big salad and a crisp, sizzling hot pizza.  

Here’s a completely hand-driven, homemade 15-inch pizza–made at the end of the day–using just what I had on hand.   

Baked at 500F for about 12 minutes or until it looks the way any great pizza should–golden, crispy and bubbling on top.   

The point: With all the talk lately of “no-knead” dough–with having to wait 18 hours before using it!–I thought I would remind you of how incredibly easy it is to make a yeast dough the old fashioned way–even spur of the moment!   

Oh–and the aromas from all my cooking made Mango feel MUCH better! She came to me with that oh-so-familiar look…   

"I'm SO hungry, Mama!..."

So, the food was great, Mango felt better and JON WON HIS GOLF TOURNAMENT!!! Life is good. To see me making a pizza dough (and learn a sane way to make pizza for a crowd), watch this video. And, to see the recipe for the dough, click here.

Tags: easy homemade pizza recipe, focaccia recipe, homemade pizza recipe, pizza dough recipe, pizza recipe, ways to use pizza dough

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Ok, I get it–I need to blog more often. Believe me, it’s not for lack of wanting to but I’ve been so busy teaching (with all the inherent shopping, schlepping and prepping), life-coaching my individual clients and taking care of my family, that I’m practically comatose after the dinner dishes are all dried and tucked away. Yesterday, after teaching cooking all day in Brooklyn–I was so exhausted that in insides of my ears hurt and the only way to get a second wind, so I could cook dinner for my family, was to turn on the radio and start to dance around the kitchen. (By the way, this really shifted my energy–I felt so much better once I allowed myself to be moved by (and to move to) the music (on a classic rock station on XM) that my dog, Mango, (after first looking up at me like I had lost my mind) she became so excited that she started to jump and wiggle along with me!) 

So, after saying to myself “Lauren, people are going to think you’re ill or (worse)–that you’ve stopped living with opinions and have nothing to say” I’ve decided that it’s time to finally connect. (It’s a bit like when you’ve waited too long to call a friend because you feel like there’s just TOO much to say so you put off calling –and then feel guilty–and then end up forgetting all the things you would have told them way back when those things felt important to share (I knew you’d understand…).

I’m glad I got that off my chest!

Ok, so about the food. I’m “in process”–Meaning, I’m working on some stuff that’s important to me and I’m not 100% finished so I haven’t wanted to blog about it but I’ve decided to let you in.

One of the things I’ve been working on (and very excited about) is homemade potato gnocchi. (Personally, I never liked gnocchi–only had it once and it was so heavy and monotonous that I couldn’t figure out what the big attraction was until one day my son’s girlfriend Jenn told me that her “all time favorite food is potato gnocchi–just like grandma makes.” And so (you know me…) ever since that night I’ve been driven (I’m tempted to say “haunted” or “hounded” but both seem too dramatic and/or negative–and this feeling of wanting to understand Jenn’s devotion to gnocchi was the opposite of negative–Actually, this feeling is what makes me tick, tickled and, yes, turned on to the ever deepening ways to experience deliciousness!) Now was my chance–I finally had a real reason–a person–to help me get inside what makes gnocchi so adored by so many. The plan is to reveal my light, tender and scrumptious darlings for Jenn’s birthday dinner–it’s coming in June.

Yes, you might be saying to yourself “Lauren, shut up! Why would you want to spoil her surprise?!”

Well, it’s been done already…Jon (my adorable husband who, like me, is just so excited by this gnocchi) spilled the beans to Jenn in a restaurant. He said “Jenn, get ready, Lauren is working on potato gnocchi for your birthday and it’s SO delicious–you’re gonna love it!”  As the words were coming out of his mouth, I wanted to yelp “NO, PLEEESE…..DON’T SAY IT!” First, because I wanted it to be a surprise–but mostly because of the PRESSURE that I now feel! HOW CAN I, A JEWISH GIRL FROM LONG ISLAND, A GNOCCHI VIRGIN, POSSIBLY MEASURE UP TO JENNIFER’S ITALIAN GRANDMOTHER’S HOMEMADE MASTERPIECE? (Oy vey.)

Anyway, this particualr blog is not to tell you how to make gnocchi–that’s coming–this blog is to show you how WELL I’m doing! Take a look at this…

I am now a HUGE gnocchi fan! Ok, gotta go. (My blogging slump is now officially over.)

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Oh well. This weekend, Jon and I were ”supposed” to go on a (very) short fishing trip. The kids are all in their respective places (school and work) and, for the very first time, I agreed to put Mango (our 3 year old Lab.) into doggie camp and we were going to Montauk, Long Island for a much needed, teeny-weeny vacation. Of course, that’s not to say that real fishing is easy–it’s not! But it’s really FUN!

Last March, we went to the Bahamas for a week and fished ALL day, every day …

We're fishing off shore and I have a big one on the line...

Me and my big-fat Mutton Snapper!

Here's Jon with his big fat Mutton Snapper...

Here's Jon with his amazing Grouper...

Here's us with our "double catch" of Wahoo (we both had them on our lines at the same time!) If you've never eaten Wahoo, it's an incredibly meaty, succulent and delicious fish...

Each night, we would go to a different neighborhood restaurant near the marina and have the chef cook up our catch.

Jon and I caught these all in one day!

After fishing, each day, the first mate on the boat would fillet the fish and then, after sharing our catch with him and the captain, we would take the rest to a local restaurant. What we couldn't eat, we happily shared with the kitchen staff...

Ever since this trip, it’s been really hard to call any fish “fresh” after having experienced the perfection of “just caught” fish.

Anyway, we didn’t get to go fishing this weekend. The weather forecast turned bad so  instead of having two days on the water, Jon (who, I knew, felt really bad) came to me and said (as if this would be as good…) “Hey, Laur…let’s go apple picking and we’ll take Mango with us!”

“Gee… ok,” I said.

So, we drove a bit over an hour upstate and traipsed through a huge orchard filled with tons of trees that grew a vast variety of apples. In just over an hour of picking, I must say, we did pretty well! We filled three large plastic bags, which wasn’t easy–especially considering that many of the trees were already well “picked-through” and whatever was left  were dangling higher than we were tall. Plus, we were also trying to manage a large (and very busy) dog on a leash.

Mango was so happy that we didn't go fishing...

After walking back to the car lugging both, our apples and mango, I realized that during all the reaching and bending, I lost my reading glasses!  (Anyone that knows me intimately, knows that losing my glasses is NOT an uncommon occurrence…) Jon, being the sweet man that he is, actually agreed to go all the way back with me…trying to retrace our steps through a gazillion trees, searching  for my glasses–which was really so silly, considering they had transparent frames and were completely unable to be seen (especially not by me, without my glasses!). So, after finally saying  ”bye-bye” to my specs we got in the car, drove down lots of winding dirt roads, headed back to the front gates of the orchard where we were required  to pay a whopping $50 for our “apple-catch.” (I silently started doing the math, trying to figure out how expensive this day was now that I ALSO  had to replace my glasses…)

So, we drove home and then came the inevitable, after a day of picking.

What will I DO with all of these apples??

It’s not that I don’t like going fruit picking (I love it) but this particular time, my inner voice kept nagging….”Boy, right now, Jon and I could be toting our big fat fresh fish to a restaurant AND I could be staying in a hotel with turn-down service. This was supposed to be a vacation day!…”

Of course, Mango was thrilled as she lay splat on the floor of my kitchen, completely pooped after our day out in the fields…

After cleaning all the apples, I went to bed. (I was just as tired as Mango– I’ll spare you the photograph…)

Anyway, the next morning, I made the logical choice when about to wrestle with a ton of apples… I decided to make applesauce. So, I cleaned them all up and seperated out the small ones (and all of the red delicious apples) for eating and used the rest for the sauce.

Today, it would be the smooth kind (instead of the chunky type that I also make).

Although I usually use Macintosh as the base (the ones that I cook and mash), because we had so many varieties, I used them all (Ida, Cortland, Macs…and some others that I haven’t ever eaten before.)

I cored them and cut them into wedges (I discard the core but leave the skin on to add a rosy color to my sauce–not to mention that it would take me about a decade to peel all those apples!) The best tool to use when working with lots of apples is an apple corer/wedge cutter (If you’re a mother, you probably have one of these in one of your kitchen drawers. If not, it looks like this… )

An apple corer/wedge cutter.

How to use an apple corer/wedge cutter

I used a 16-quart pot and filled it to capacity with cored, cut up apples. I added a hefty splash of apple juice. (Actually, this time, I used apple cider, purchased from the orchard. I usually just use unsweetened apple juice.) I stuck several cinnamon sticks down into the apples, covered the pot and turned the heat to high. As the apples cooked…

I occasionally uncovered the pot and would try to turn the apples so that some of those wedges more exposed to bottom heat would be rotated to the top. I also used a potato masher on the apples, trying to help them to break down.

Once all the apples became good and hot, they started to reduce and became easier to mash.  I just kept (occasionally) opening the pot, turning the apples and mashing them down.

It didn’t take long before the apples completely surrendered their texture (boy, that sentence makes me feel powerful…) and it was now time to transfer things to a food mill. So, I positioned a very large food mill over a very large bowl.

And I have quite the food mill…

This is a HUGE food mill that I purchased years ago from a restaurant supply store. It was pricey and I felt guilty but since I never (ever) seem to make a small batch of applesauce, and because I always had a really hard time positioning (straddling) a smaller food mill over the large bowl, I caved in and bought this big one. I’ve never regretted it…Having said this, all food mills are not easy to clean (especially this gargantuan one) unless you understand how to take it apart and put it back together. (I finally learned so PLEASE email me so I can help you…)

As you churn the apples in the food mill, pick out the cinnamon sticks. If a stray one gets in there, don’t worry,  it won’t hurt anything but they can’t go through the holes and just slows things down a bit. Then, to the bowl of pureed apples, add some pure vanilla extract, ground cinnamon, freshly grated nutmeg and sugar (all to taste). Then add a pinch of salt (salt always helps to release sweetness).

Then, ladle the applesauce into very clean quart-size jars and let it cool to just warm. (I drape a sheet of wax paper over the top, as it cools). Then put a piece of plastic wrap over the top of each jar and attached their lids…and into the fridge they go! If you don’t have enough refrigerator space, you can always process the jars in a boiling water bath. To learn about the tools and how to do this properly, read this blog.

So, the applesauce was finally put to bed and I was about to head to my office to write when Jon came into the kitchen and said with a smile “Honey, quick, come outside to see the big fat figs that are ripe and just waiting for you to pick them off the tree!” Now, if you’ve ever grown figs successfully…and if you’ve ever (then) had a season that failed to produce, you know how exciting this moment was (and what made it even sweeter was that Jon saved this for me).

So, I went outside and, there they were.

How sweet it is!!....

Today's "pick." (YAY!)

This morning, as I laid in bed thinking and reflecting on this past weekend, I was no longer feeling robbed of a fishing trip. Instead I was filled with gratitude.  I have Jon as a husband and best friend who always supports my growth (he continues to buy me new glasses) and he never stops helping me see the bright spot in everything.

The Point: Although great vacations inevitably end and new ones can unexpectedly get canceled, great relationships can provide us all with everyday access to how amazing it feels to get the “catch” of a lifetime.

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