Because I’m a food professional, what I order to eat in restaurants always seems to surprise those who are at the same table, especially when out for Italian food. Even Jon, my husband, shakes his head when he hears me say to the waiter (yet again) “I’ll have veal (or chicken or eggplant) parmesan, please.” Actually, when we go to a “new” trendy place, I search the menu, hoping to find something that’s familiar and that, in my heart, I think I will find comforting.

To me, trendy, “over-stuffed with descriptive ingredient” dishes are usually either hokey, pretentious and/or are all about stroking the chef’s ego and padding his or her wallet.  And, let’s face it, with the economy the way it is, since we go out a lot less, I’ve become much less flippant when it comes to the restaurants we trust with the quality of our evening and also with the foods I order…I’m not looking for surprises (certainly not for trouble), and simply want to be happy eating and enjoying time with my family and friends.

What most don’t know about food professionals…(and, please correct me if I’m wrong in your case), is that we go out to eat mostly for the once-in-a-while chance to have someone cook for us. Yes, we like to experience newly opened restaurants, but when it comes to speaking the words “I’ll have…” rarely do we seek “fru-fru” foods. (Actually, that’s a nice way of tagging dishes that I usually describe as “stupid food”…you know, things like (no joke) ” foie gras crème brûlée or rose and black pepper ice cream.” )

For me, gimme anything “alla parmesan” (ok, alla Parmigiano” –I can here Anna Teresa Callen, a friend and teaching colleague, grimacing as yet another “silly American” has the nerve to mislabel a native Italian dish–which, by the way, although the American version is not truly authentic, it tastes MUCH better (when made well), the American way–at least to Americans).

Anyway, regardless of how you spell it, a crispy, pan-fried veal cutlet topped generously with garlicky, basil and chili pepper laced marinara sauce and then totally doused in shredded cheese and baked until bubbling, has always been one of my favorite dishes to eat. And, it’s no surprise that, like most of the greatest comfort foods, the best versions can be made at home.

So, because I trust that I’m not alone in my adoration for “anything Parm”… I’d like to share with you this, the most famous type, which is that made with veal. (I’ll give brief instructions for chicken, eggplant, shrimp and even a gorgeous stacked grilled vegetable variation at the end.)

OK, first you need veal cutlets. (By the way, anyone that’s reading this who lives within a sane distance to Arthur Avenue, in the Bronx, New York, I absolutely recommend that you go there (for so many reasons) and especially for the butcher shop Biancardi’s, which is right on the avenue (you can’t miss it…)

Anyway, here’s what I get, per person…

a pounded veal cutlet

One of the best parts of home cooking is being able to really make a dish look voluptuous. So, for me, I like to start with a large slice of veal (from the leg) and then have the butcher pound it out nice and thin, which is what tenderizes it.

Then, when ready to bread the cutlets, you need to set up correctly…like this:

First is the seasoned flour, then the beaten eggs and next comes the breadcrumbs mixed with grated cheese

You also want to have a tray (a baking sheet) lined with wax paper to receive the cutlets after breading them. If doing several cutlets, you’ll need more than one tray because the cutlets need to be placed in a single layer. You can also separate the layers of cutlets with sheets of wax paper.

First you dredge (lightly coat) the cutlets in the seasoned flour (after coating completely, shake any excess flour off). Then, dip in the eggs, turning to coat completely. Then lay the wet cutlet in the crumbs and coat well on both side (press the crumbs in so the cutlets are heavily coated). When done, the cutlet should be evenly (and heavily) coated with crumbs.

About the amounts (per 2 large cutlets): Season about 2/3 cup unbleached, all-purpose flour with salt and pepper. Beat 2 eggs in a long dish, like the Pyrex one featured in the photo. Mix 1 1/2 cups of each dried breadcrumbs (preferably ones you’ve made yourself and have in the freezer–click here for the printable recipe) and freshly grated, best-quality Parmesan cheese (I use Reggiano-Parmigiano which is, by far, one of the greatest gifts to the world of cheese-dom). If you have any of the crumb-cheese mixture leftover,  you can freeze it and use it again, either to top baked artichokes or to coat the next batch of cutlets.

Here’s what the cutlets look like after breading…

See, I told you they were large...This is how a sexy dish is built!

Although not mandatory, it’s a good idea to chill the breaded cutlets for a while so that the crumbs have an easier time adhering. An hour or so is all that’s needed but you can also do this a day ahead and keep them chilled, covered with plastic wrap.

When ready to pan-fry, you’ll need to heat a large non-stick skillet with a shallow, but even, layer of olive oil (use either extra-virgin or the lighter, virgin olive oil). While the oil is heating, lay some doubled paper towels on your work surface, preferably close to the stove. (If this isn’t possible, line a large tray with paper towels so you can bring the tray to the stove to retrieve your cooked cutlets. I often will crush a clove or two of garlic and saute that in the oil, allowing it to become golden (pressing gently) which helps to flavor the oil.

When the garlic is golden, remove it (and save it for yourself to eat!) …then add a knob of butter to the pan, swirling it as it melts and incoprorates with the oil.  When the butter is bubbling, but not brown, carefully easy a breaded cutlet into the oil. (The size of your cutlets as well as the size of your pan will determine how many cutlets you will be able to cook at one time. Most important is that they be able to sit in the hot oil, in a single layer, with no overlap. And make sure you don’t use a pan that’s so large that it exceeds the burner below it by so much that your cutlets won’t brown evenly.)

Here's a cutlet cooking on the first side.

Fry the cutlet over high heat and if, while cooking, you see any portion of the cutlet puffing upward, use your turning spatula to gently tamp the raised portion down. Doing this prevents uneven browning.

This is what the first side looks like after turning the cutlet over.

To safely remove the cutlet from the hot oil, I recommend using two large, off-set (and perforated) turning spatulas (like the one used to tamp down the cutlet while frying). When ready to remove the cooked cutlet, slide one spatula underneath the cutlet (with your working hand) and then, while holding the other spatula in your non-working hand, position it on top of the cutlet (from the other side) and lift with the working hand (which will carry the cutlet) and the other hand will help secure the cutlet in place. (To see a video that explains the best, safest way to lift large pan-fried foods out of hot oil, click here.) Lay the cooked cutlet(s) on the paper towels, to drain.

If needed, use a bit more paper towel to blot any excess oil from the top of the cutlets. Continue to fry and drain the remaining cutlets. If, at any time during the frying process (when in between batches) if the oil seems overly dark from any accumulation of crumbs, turn off the stove, let the oil cool down and pour it (carefully) into a heatproof bowl. Wipe out the skillet and add a fresh layer of olive oil. Continue as described above.

Now it’s time to assemble the dish. Here’s how…

First place the drained cutlets on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. You’ll need shredded cheese. I shred (yikes, don’t kill me) blocks of muenster cheese, using the shredding disc on my food processor. Sometimes I’ll also shred some Italian Fontina and mix in some low-moisture mozzarella cheese but I think I like muenster the best because of it’s mellow flavor and buttery (gooey) texture (again, a very sexy choice, for this dish…) You’ll also need a generous amount of marinara sauce (I not only top the cutlets with the sauce but I also like to have extra that I heat up and serve in case someone at the table wants more.)

Pan-fried cutlets, marinara sauce, shredded cheese

So, first you top the cutlets with sauce… To see a video that will teach you three different (all fabulous) versions of marinara sauce, depending on seasonal availability and/or your time constraints, click here.

Use a generous amount of sauce...

And now comes the cheese…Yup, be generous (that’s what home-cooking is all about!)

Are you hungry yet??

All there is left to do is sprinkle on some more grated Reggiano-Parmigiano…then bake way in a preheated 375F oven!

(Oh…you can let the assembled cutlets (before baking) sit out at a comfortable room temperature for an hour or so. You can also cover the cutlets and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Let sit out of the refrigerator for a while before baking or adjust (lengthen) the baking time.

Oh, baby...Aren't you glad you ate home?

This is how veal parmesan should look when it leaves the oven…(takes 30 to 35 minutes in my oven at 375F. (I use the convection setting.)

Ok, now, about those variatons:

For chicken parmesan: You’ll get two servings from one large whole chicken breast, which will yield two chicken cutlets. Ask the butcher to skin, bone and butterfly each breast half. (I’ll teach you how, but this isn’t the right blog.) He or she (the butcher) should then flatten each breast half so the meat is of an even thickness. Follow the same instructions for veal parmesan.

For eggplant parmesan (there’s no picture yet, it’s coming…): Take a large eggplant and rinse and dry it well. Slice off the stem end and slice each eggplant, lengthwise, into 1/2-inch slices. You now have two choices: Bread the eggplant slices like  you would veal or chicken (allowing one slice of eggplant per serving) or, you can, after slicing, brush each slice with a mixture of extra-virgin olive oil, minced garlic and chopped flat-leaf, Italian parsley (no formal recipe amounts here, just do what comes naturally). You would then grill the slices (outdoors, over high heat or on a stove-top grill pan), first sprinkled with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper (shift the position of each slice once, on each side, while cooking, to create a cross-hatch pattern, and turn the slices over only once). If grilled, you’ll allow two slices per each serving, spreading a bit of sauce in between each, before applying a more generous application of sauce and then the cheese. Bake as you would veal or chicken.

For shrimp parmesan:

Allow 6 to 8 jumbo shrimp per person.

It’s easy to remove the shell and intestinal vein from each shrimp. Just run the blade of a thin, sharp serrated knife into the outer curved portion of each shrimp. Pull off the shell (for this dish I like to keep the tails on, but you can pull them off, if you want). The incision made to sever the shell should also expose the greenish-black intestinal vein. Rinse the shrimp under cold water to remove it. (You can also have the fish monger do this for you.)

To butterfly shrimp: (My preference, for this dish, since it helps the shrimp to curl nicely when cooking in the hot sauce). Simply drive the blade of the knife a bit deeper into the original incision to remove the shell. You can easily do this when making your first cut; just go deeper and pull off the shell, rinse and you’re good to go.

To set up to cook: Preheat the broiler while you heat your marinara sauce, over medium heat, until piping hot. Then fold the raw, butterflied shrimp into the sauce and reduce the heat to low. Cook the shrimp, over low heat, until just cooked (only takes about 3 or 4  minutes, once really hot!). Then remove from the stove. Place some shrimp and sauce (be generous with the sauce) in individual heat-poof dishes and top with cheese. (If you don’t have individual dishes, use an oven to table baking dish. Either way, once the cheese is applied, finish things up under a preheated broiler until the cheese is melted, gooey and looks like this….

Shrimp Parmesan...or Shrimp Parmigiano (tastes great, whatever you call it!)

Mama mia… I’m hungry all over again!

Now, here’s a “stacked” grilled vegetable variation that’s really elegant yet earthy and makes a fabulous (and substantial) main-dish (and not just for vegetarians!)

Vegetables needed per each person: You’ll need one large portobello mushroom, wiped clean and the stem removed, 1 slice of eggplant (1/2-inch thick) (choose an eggplant that has a similar circumference to the mushroom, 1 half of a roasted, peeled and seeded bell pepper.

About the sauce: Use the same marinara sauce that’s in all of the above variations. Have extra to serve on the side with dinner.

Cheese: Same cheese as in all the above variations.

You’ll season all the vegetables the same, here’s how: Mix a generous batch of extra-virgin olive oil, minced garlic, crushed red chili flakes (to taste) and freshly ground black pepper. You can add some minced flat-leaf Italian parsely, but this is optional. Brush this all over both sides of each (the mushrooms, sliced eggplant and  roasted peppers.  Use some of the remaining olive oil mixture to baste on the vegetables while grilling and any leftovers can be placed in the fridge to use during the week (or, better yet, use it to slather on sliced crusty bread and grill it or broil until golden on both sides–makes a great accompaniment to the dish!).

Now, simply season the vegetables with kosher salt and grill either outdoors or inside, on a stove-top grill pan (If doing this indoors, get the pan nice and hot and have your exhaust fan turned on). Here, take a look:

Mushrooms and peppers grilling side by side.

When grilling the mushrooms, once you’ve gotten nice grill marks on the cap side, turn and grill, gills side down, until tender. Baste with some of the reserved olive oil mixture, as needed. Since the peppers are already roasted, thus tender, just grill them enough to get a bit of char on them, turning once. When these vegetables are done, transfer them to the same dish used after seasoning them and move on to grill the eggplant, turning once, until nice and tender.

To assemble the dish, first you’ll set up by having everything needed close by (the sauce, shredded cheese and, of course, the grilled vegetables:

Here are all the vegetables after grilling.

About the dish: a shallow baking sheet, lined with aluminum foil and then a sheet of parchment (placed over the foil).

Now place a spoonful of the sauce on the parchment, where you will be placing your grilled mushroom cap. Then place the mushroom over the sauce, cap side down and gill side up. Spoon some of the sauce over each mushroom and then start stacking the vegetables on top. Take a look…

The grilled mushrooms get a nice spoonful of sauce over the gill side...

And, the eggplant goes over the sauce...

Now spoon a bit more sauce on top of the eggplant and then…

After a little sauce, the peppers go on top of the grilled eggplant...

Now give the top of the peppers some more sauce and then….finally….THE CHEESE!

Can't you just tell this is going to be totally delish?

Now, all you do is bake in a preheated 375F oven until it looks amazing (30 to 35 minutes in a preheated oven).

Here’s dinner tonight…

Oh, it's SO good!

Ok, I’ve done my thing. Now it’s your turn to do yours. (I’m here…and just an email away!)

Tags: bread crumbs, chicken parmesan, eggplant parmesan, food, homemade marinara, how to cook chicken parmesan, how to cook eggplant parmesan, how to cook shrimp parmesan, how to cook veal parmesan, how to make veal parmesan, recipe, shrimp parmesan, veal parm, veal parmesan

There was an article in a recent Sunday New York Times, written by Jodi Rudoren, that really bothered me. In this article, front and center, was a picture, a caricature depicting a “slice of life” in this writer’s home, at dinnertime. Although the author of this article succeeded at conveying her personal frustration, her claim to know what the American home cook really wants to see on TV is, I feel, presumptuous and ultimately incorrect. I say this from what I know, in a first hand way, as a professional cooking/baking teacher, a devoted wife and mother who’s raised three kids and also as a very dedicated home-cooking enthusiast.

First, let’s talk a bit about this caricature….

In the background are three people, two kids and one husband and the dad’s in the middle. These three people are sitting in a line, at a counter, and in front of them are three very empty dinner-sized plates. These three human gems were staring (actually glaring) at the (supposedly) most important woman in their life, dear old Mom (who’s not old at all but she sure looks famished (no, not hungry…this is a Yiddish word that means totally stressed..).

Mom, who’s draped in a chef’s jacket (why, I don’t know), is standing a few feet away from her family, in front of a cutting board manning a way-too professional looking chef’s knife, especially given the way her lip is curled, her hair is dangling and her eyes are looking up and back as if to plead “Calgone take me awaaaaaay!.” This was clearly no chef–she seemed to really dislike cooking. Actually, this picture conveyed a woman who seemed uncomfortable with her life at home, in general. Unlike some working women who actually enjoy being able to claim “I can bring home the bacon and still fry it up in a pan,” in this article, to this mom, cooking leaves her feeling like a “poor-me,” worn-out maid. Boy…Thanksgiving at her house must be really fun…

The picture in this article also makes it obvious that her unhelpful and unappreciative family members fuel her discontent and, to me, it’s this dynamic that seems to be at the real root of the author’s snarl. To read both, her complaints and desires about food-TV, she’s clearly not looking to become a better cook by watching these programs and, instead, seems to be looking for a way to simply commiserate with others either in her same unsupportive-family predicament or with those who have it worse. Perverse voyeurism seems to have replaced “self-help” content on television. What a shame.

When did real learning stop being considered “entertaining?” I’ll tell you when, when “reality TV” was born! Seems it’s no longer enough to use Food-TV time (especially at night) to simply teach and learn valuable, usable skills; today’s viewers have become addicted to seeing those at the helm of many of these shows squirm their way out of a real jam–I guess this makes the viewer feel better about their own lot, if only for a little while.

In this article, the author (obviously the mother in this scenario) is whining about the “unreal” way reality (specifically competitive) food TV shows portray “real-life” home-cooking…as if that’s supposed to be their mission. Irked by how every time she and her hubby lay like lumps on the couch watching TV cooking shows like “Top Chef” the reality depicted doesn’t speak to her own (which is that of a seemingly unhappy person who’s hero is admittedly Bree Van De Kamp, the character depicting a highly neurotic hostess with an inappropriately lopsided relationship with her work (just one of her gazillion character flaws) on “Desperate Housewives,” the hit show that gives frustrated women a real vicarious romp. (No doubt this show has been translated into many, many languages…)

Meanwhile, although the author made lots of snide (OK, some were comical) comments, listing the reasons why she dislikes this show (Top Chef) …. not only does she make it her buisness to religiously watch these shows on DVD (she actually recited the detailed contents of several seasons worth of episodes) but she also invests the cerebral muscle that she claims not to have to get things together for her family at dinnertime, to publicly diss a show that clearly doesn’t pretend to have anything to do with “real” home cooking.

What does the author say she wants? She wants to see a “real” reality show…one that (and I quote) “instead of showing a stocked Top Chef pantry, they would show the same participants perusing refrigerators and cabinets with the same crusty condiment bottles and stale spice racks that were in their homes on the day they were picked.”

Does this sound like a hit show to you? Just sounds like more dysfunctional, exploitative, “icky” TV to me.

Granted, it would probably do very well because the same folks that keep the ratings of shows about cooking competitions high, also watch shows about eating bugs and are often glued to those cooking programs hosted by apronless babes with wide, toothy grins and an ever-deepening cleavage. As if “that’s” something we moms should add to our list of aspirations at 6 pm after a long day out in the world. So, a show highlighting homemade crusty dysfunction …well, that seems to fit right in! (In all fairness, I guess the networks with programming about food have to do something to compete with shows like “American Idol, Dancing with the Stars, The Biggest Loser, and Wife Swap”…)

Personally, although I confess to watching the shows about cooking weird things (last night Andrew Z. was sucking on sautéed squirrel’s brains)…and I do find shows interesting that reveal things like how, where (and why) the very first candy canes were made… I’m SO bored by over-exposed restaurant chefs and I’m left feeling just as cold by shows featuring chicken-fighting, wanna-be star chefs, as are my friends, most of whom are not food professionals. When we discuss food-TV, we also concur to need fewer shows hosted by tightly dressed ladies with glossy lips, exposed chests and bedroom eyes–most of whom don’t have kids, making them unable to truly understand the food-style/lifestyle needs of working mothers (and by the way, all mothers are working whether we have an “outside” job or not).

What I hear over and over again is that few of these shows actually teaches anymore, certainly not like the old (original) days on Food TV.

So, to me, what’s lacking is a combination of things, all stemming from the need for more sound instruction given by people who really understand the whole picture of today’s home-cook, given a variety of scenarios…However, cooking shows should not be used as a time and place to wallow in personal frustration by watching other amateur cooks scramble through a lack of kitchen know-how, or professionals frantically trying to perform without the right tools or ingredients, just to see them squirm. Although sometimes amusing, in actuality, this only robs valuable time and keeps viewers stuck in the same sorry place. We need more cooking shows that actually aim to help the viewer to proactively become more proficient–at COOKING AND BAKING!

So, here’s an at-a-glance guide to what today’s home cook really wants and needs from watching food-TV:

1) We desire to learn how to have more fun cooking. To feel inspired to see the kitchen as a place and cooking as a way to recreate and become restored after a long day or week of working and/or toting the kids from place to place.

2) We desire to learn how to excersize and strengthen our creative and nurturing spirit by tapping into the realm where cooking can be seen as a daily way to build something delicious, whether new or tried and true, to be experienced as something soothing and yet exciting for us personally, and also as a way to consistently convey devotion to those at the table.

3) We desire to be forewarned of the technical challenges in a given dish; to learn timing and organizational skills along with shopping “smarts,” all to help keep the “at-home sport” of cooking and the continual practice of creating and sharing family meals moving forward in a happy way.

4) We desire to learn from one who’s truly been there; one who intimately understands both, the joys and potential vulnerability inherent in feeding people that we like and/or love and who often depend on us. (And it helps if this person has actually survived raising multiple children through puberty….)

What we want and need on the home-front…

1) We want to cook with and for kind, appreciative people. (We also could use some help cleaning up…)

2) Most important, we want to learn all kinds of “family-friendly” recipes, especially those that are doable even when tired, hungry and every-one’s eyes are on us to save the day.

Well, although I can’t be there personally to put a fire under your family, I certainly can teach you to cook more efficiently and, I hope, with a more creative spirit and with love in your heart.

So, this is from me to you, as one who “knows”…

Here’s a recipe that’s delicious, cost-effective and also has major do-ahead benefits. It’s also both, kid AND husband friendly.

Sloppy Joe's are simple food that's truly soothing...

Sloppy Joe’s…A Blast from the Past, Only Better!

Yield: serves 4 to 6 (the sauce is large enough to feed 4 to 6 (twice!)

My husband Jon is frequently asked “What’s your absolutely favorite meal at home?” Most people are quite surprised by his answer, which is always the same: “Lauren’s Sloppy Joe’s are very close to the top of the list.” This combination of ground meat simmered in an intensely flavored sauce, served atop buttered and toasted burger buns seems to send my husband back to his childhood. (Of course, what he ate back then was completely store-bought and the eating place was usually the school cafeteria.) Since this sauce doubles perfectly, I really recommend that you make a large batch and freeze it in separate small containers. Then, in the morning, you can take the sauce out to thaw and simply purchase freshly ground beef and some buns, sometime during the day. So, on nights when you’re exhausted, within minutes, you can prepare and share a delicious, quick and truly comforting meal. Also, don’t hesitate to use ground turkey instead of beef. Or, if meat isn’t your thing, you can simply simmer reconstituted soy vegetable protein in the sauce and serve it the same way you would when using meat. The point: Regardless of your choice of protein, this recipe for Sloppy Joe’s is a real winner and truly family-friendly.

A note: For an easily printable version, click here. Also, if you’d like to watch the videos of me performing some of the basic cooking skills required in this recipe (i.e. chopping onions and celery, peeling and chopping garlic and peeling and seeding tomatoes), you can see the previews by clicking here. so you can decide whether or not you’d like to see them in their entirety.

Equipment

12-inch non-reactive, deep-sided skillet

At-a-Glance Recipe Guide

Prep time: 30 minutes (for the sauce)

Cooking time (for the sauce): 1 ½ hours (for the initial cooking of the sauce which can all be done way ahead, divided and kept frozen)

Cooking time: 20 minutes to assemble the actual sloppy Joe’s

Do ahead potential: All of the vegetables required for the sauce can be prepared and refrigerated, separately and well covered, one day ahead of assembling. The sauce can be made in bulk, divided into increments and frozen for at least 6 months (I’ve kept it longer and it’s fabulous…).

Ingredients

• 2 generous cups Sloppy Joe Sauce (following)
• 2 generous pounds freshly ground beef (chuck, round, sirloin or a combination) or ground veal and/or turkey
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 4 to 6 large hamburger buns
• Softened butter, for the buns

Make the sauce: Prepare as directed in following recipe, measure out 2 cups and freeze the rest in 1 or 2 cups increments.

Brown the ground meat: Heat a 10-inch non-reactive deep-sided skillet over medium heat. When hot, add the ground meat and break it up with a wooden spatula. Cook the meat until separated and no longer pink, about 4 minutes. Then remove from the stove and drain out any excess fat from skillet. Return skillet to the stove, over low heat. Stir in the sauce and bring the mixture to a gentle simmer, uncovered. Cook gently until the flavors mingle and the mixture is piping hot throughout, about 10 minutes. Add some more freshly ground black pepper and serve immediately.

Assemble the Sloppy Joe’s and serve: While the sauce is simmering, open the hamburger buns and spread both opened sides lightly with butter. Lay the buns, buttered sides up, on a shallow baking sheet. Broil the buns until the buttered sides are nicely toasted. Spoon the ground beef mixture lavishly over buns and serve hot.

Sloppy Joe Sauce

Yield: about 4 cups; serves 8 to 10

Please don’t begrudge the long list of ingredients in this sauce. The individual components all come together to make these Sloppy Joe’s better than all others (trust me, I get calls, emails and letters from all over the country because this recipe is so satisfying..) Also, this recipe makes twice as much sauce as called for in the preceding recipe. You can cut it in half or (what I suggest) double it so you will have plenty on hand in your freezer. You’ll need one generous cup of sauce for each generous pound of ground meat to serve two adults or four kids.

Equipment

• 2 1/2-quart non-reactive saucepan

Ingredients:

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 cup packed minced yellow onion
• 1/2 cup packed seeded and minced green bell pepper
• 1/4 cup seeded and minced red bell pepper
• 2 tablespoons minced celery
• 6 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 cups canned tomato puree
• 2 rounded tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 cup prepared ketchup
• 2 tablespoons cider vinegar
• 1/4 cup unsulphured molasses
• 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 cup chopped cleaned fresh button mushrooms or portobello mushroom caps only
• 1 1/2 cups peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped ripe plum (Roma) tomatoes or drained and seeded canned plum tomatoes
• 1 teaspoon crumbled dried oregano
• 1 teaspoon “Better Than Bouillon” (beef version), available in well-stocked supermarkets
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Start the sauce: Heat a 2 1/2-quart nonreactive saucepan over medium heat and, when hot, add the oil. When the oil is hot, stir in the onion, green and red pepper, celery and garlic. Cook until the vegetables are softened and fragrant, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the tomato puree, tomato paste, ketchup, vinegar, molasses and Worcestershire sauce. Bring the mixture to a simmer, reduce heat to very low and simmer with the cover ajar for 1 hour.

Sauté the mushrooms: Heat an 8-inch skillet over high heat and, when hot, add the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the chopped mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms are golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Finish the sauce: After the sauce has simmered 1 hour, add the sautéed mushrooms, chopped plum tomatoes, oregano, “Better Than Bouillon” seasoning and some freshly ground black pepper. Return to a simmer and cook with the cover ajar for 30 minutes more. If you plan on using the sauce that day, measure out as much as needed and let the remaining sauce cool. Freeze cooled sauce in tightly sealed containers.

Serving Variations
The assembled Sloppy Joe mixture (including meat) is not only great on buns, it’s fabulous over hot, lightly buttered pasta; toss in some cooked peas for a hearty and delicious meal. Alternatively, stir some into a bowl of freshly cooked rice. And, don’t throw out any leftovers! Heat up the sauce on the next night and spoon it onto baked potatoes; If desired, sprinkle the tops lightly with grated Cheddar cheese and bake or broil until the cheese is melted and bubbling.

Special Equipment

• Wooden board, for kneading
• Pastry scraper
• Rolling pin (preferably a 3-foot long pin, that’s straight, without ball-bearings)
• Hand-cranked pasta machine: only if not rolling and cutting pasta by hand
• 8-quart pot with built in strainer, optional, for cooking the pasta

For the pasta

• 3 cups pasta flour (finely ground semolina), plus more, for dusting and rolling
• 6 extra-large eggs, made tepid by submerging in a bowl of very hot tap water for 10 minutes
• 1 generous tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil or Garlic Confit Oil
• 1 scant teaspoon salt
• A few grinds of freshly ground black pepper and 1/2 cup minced fresh herbs such as basil, parsley and/or chives (optional)

1) To make the dough: Place the pasta flour in a mound, on a large wooden work surface. Press the bottom of a small bowl in the flour, to make a deep, wide well. Crack the tepid eggs into the well, then add the olive oil, salt, pepper and/or herbs (if using). Using your fingers on both hands, break up the eggs, combining them with the flavoring ingredients, without disturbing the flour. Use your fingers to repetitively splash the eggs, rapidly moving your fingers down, up, around and down again (control your movements to prevent the eggs from splashing out of the well). As you continue to splash the eggs, pull in some flour from the walls of the well, incorporating that flour completely before bringing in more. When all of the flour is incorporated, you’ll end up with an irregularly shaped, shaggy mass of dough. Use a dough scraper to help release any bits of dough from your board, and fingers, and incorporate them with the dough before you begin to knead.

Knead the dough with the heal of your hands and fingertips, continually pushing down, pulling up and turning the dough, until it’s smooth and supple, yet very firm and elastic, with a texture that’s similar to your earlobe. If at any time the dough feels sticky, dust your work surface with a bit of flour. Not too much flour, however, or the dough will slip and slide on your work surface, preventing the necessary traction. When done, dust the dough with flour, cover loosely with plastic wrap and let it rest for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Use your scraper to clean off the board, so it’s perfectly smooth.

2) To roll the dough: Use your scraper to divide the dough in half and keep one half covered, while working with the other. (If your wooden surface is smaller than specified, divide the dough into quarters.) If wearing jewelry on your fingers (even a smooth wedding band), remove this. Sprinkle a generous layer of flour on your wooden board. Flatten the dough into a rectangular shape and sprinkle the top with more flour. At first, roll the dough like you’re rolling out pie pastry, keeping a rectangular shape. When the dough looks about 1/4-inch thick, spread an even layer of flour on top, being more generous than you think necessary.

Now, the rolling process changes, becoming one where you’ll be stretching the dough, not just rolling over it. The dough should be positioned vertically in front of you. Place the pin at the top of the dough (at the short side that’s furthest from you). Roll down toward you, about 2 inches, wrapping that top lip of dough over the top of the pin. Roll down one more revolution, enclosing another section of the dough around the pin. Place your hands lightly on the top center of the pin and rock the pin back and forth, in short spurts, while simultaneously applying downward medium-pressure and sliding your hands, toward each opposing end of the rolling pin. With each rocking and hand-sliding motion, both the dough wrapped around the pin and the area directly below the pin will become thinner. When your hands reach the ends of the pin, come back to the top center, and roll the pin down one more revolution toward you (enclosing another section of dough). Repeat the rocking and sliding movements until you reach 1 or 2 inches up from the bottom of the sheet of dough. To finish this first round of dough-stretching, make a final full revolution, quickly and firmly, over the bottom lip of dough. Roll up and down three or four times, on this bottom section, so it’s even with the rest.

At this point, the pin should be close to you, with the entire sheet coiled around it. Turn the pin, switching sides, and unroll the sheet of dough, going away from you. (So, what was the top short side, is now the bottom short side.) Flour the dough and, starting at the top end (as before) roll and stretch the dough, coming down toward you, as just described. Do this a total of 2 or 3 times, until the dough is very thin. Let the pasta-sheet sit, uncovered, on your work surface until it feels drier, but is still able to bend without breaking. Depending on the weather, this can take 10 to 30 minutes. Because space will probably be an issue, don’t roll out the second half of the dough until you’ve cut and hung the first sheet. Dust the dough with flour and keep it covered with plastic wrap.

3) To cut the dough by hand
a) For lasagna noodles, divide the sheet of pasta in half widthwise, using a ruler and a sharp chef’s knife or a pasta wheel. Square off any irregular ends. Cut long, wide strips (about 3-inches wide by 7-inches long), lift each strip, and drape it over a wooden rod, on a pasta rack so it can dry.

b) To cut strands (linguine, wider fettuccine or wider pappardelle ribbons) spread a thin but even layer of flour over the still-supple sheet of pasta. Roll the dough up, into an evenly shaped log. Using a sharp knife (preferably a straight-edge cleaver), cut the log into thin or wide slices. One by one, lift and unravel each slice, as you drape it within your nonworking hand. Hang the strands on the pasta rack, so they can dry. When dry, slide the noodles off the rods and into a deep roasting pan where they can stay covered with aluminum foil, until ready to cook.

Alternatively, to use a hand-cranked pasta machine, follow the manufacturer’s instructions on your particular appliance.

4) To cook the pasta: Fill an 8-quart pot, preferably with a built-in strainer, with cold water and bring it to a rapid boil, over high heat. When ready to cook, make sure that your sauce is almost finished and piping hot. Add 2 tablespoons of salt to the boiling water, and then stir in the pasta. Cover the pot and bring the water quickly back to a rapid boil. Remove the lid and stir again. If fully dried, it should be perfectly cooked in 4 to 5 minutes. (Start timing, as soon as you stir the pasta into the boiling water.) Drain the pasta, allowing a little of the cooking water to adhere to the strands, and immediately either add it to the pan, containing your sauce or transfer the cooked pasta to a warmed serving bowl and ladle the sauce on top. Using tongs, toss the strands, coating them evenly.

If serving cooked pasta with a saucy entree, like a stew, that’s being served separately, toss the cooked pasta with some melted butter or hot olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. If cooking lasagna noodles, cook a few at a time, under-cooking slightly. Then, immediately slip them into a bowl of cold water, to remove some of their surface starch and to stop the cooking process. Carefully remove them from the water, lay them flat on sheets of wax paper and blot them dry with paper towels.

Timing is Everything
The dough can be made one day ahead and kept in the refrigerator, covered in plastic wrap. Let the dough sit out at room temperature for about an hour before rolling it out.

Although the noodles can be made and dried several days ahead, for the freshest flavor, the pasta should be eaten within 48 hours. Leave freshly dried pasta at room temperature, in a covered roasting pan. Any extra pasta can be frozen in sealed, heavy-duty freezer bags. Drop them into boiling water, straight from the freezer. Cooking time will vary at this point, so check frequently to prevent over-or under-cooking.

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Special Equipment

• Triple-mesh wire sieve
• Sturdy rubber or wooden spatula

For the sauce:

• 2 cups prepared ketchup
• 2 cups (two 12-ounce bottles) prepared chili sauce (I use Heinz)
• 1 generous cup Minced Yellow Onion
• 8 large cloves Minced Garlic
• 1/3 cup dark brown sugar
• 1/3 cup unsulphured molasses
• 1/4 cup mild-flavored honey
• 2 rounded tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
• 1/4 cup soy sauce (preferably Tamari)
• 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
• 2 generous tablespoons “Better Than Bouillon” (beef version), available in well-stocked supermarkets
• 1 or 2 fresh habanero peppers (also called Scotch Bonnets), or jalapenos, pierced several times with a fork, or 1 to 2 teaspoons hot pepper sauce, to taste (optional)
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1) To assemble the sauce: Combine all the ingredients except the ground black pepper in a 2 1/2-quart, heavy-bottomed, non-reactive saucepan. Stir well to combine and place the pan over medium heat, with the cover ajar. Bring the mixture to a full simmer, stirring occasionally, and then turn the heat to low. Continue to simmer until the sauce is thickened and the color deepens considerably, about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally (see below). Uncover, stir in a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper, and remove the saucepan from the heat. Let the sauce cool, uncovered, until just warm. If making a doubled or tripled amount, simmer the sauce for 45 minutes. (While cooling, lay a clean kitchen towel over pan to prevent debris from falling into the sauce.)

2) To strain the sauce: Pour the sauce through a triple-mesh wire sieve that’s positioned over another bowl and, using the flat edge of a sturdy rubber spatula, or a wooden spatula, force the sauce through, leaving the onions, garlic and peppers behind. Discard the solids, pour the sauce into jars, and affix their lids. Store the sauce in the refrigerator.

Timing is Everything
This sauce can be fully assembled and stored in the refrigerator for 6 months.

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I’m frequently asked two questions about the process of peeling and seeding tomatoes. One of them is: “When blanching tomatoes in order to release their skins, how will I know how long to keep them in boiling water?” Well, I wish I could give a definitive answer, but truthfully, you’ll need to go by “feel.” Gather all of your tomatoes and separate them by how they feel (individually). Heavier, less firm ones, with a deeper darker red color (less orange) are riper and need less exposure to heat in order to let go of their skins. Really ripe tomatoes will need just 10 seconds in rapidly boiling water and firmer ones will need up to 20 seconds. Your best bet is to work in small batches (no more than 4 tomatoes at a time), all with the same “feel.” And use a large slotted tool to remove them quickly, since every extra second counts. Remember, you’re not cooking the tomatoes, just skinning them. If you’re new to this, place a bowl of ice water close to the stove and, after retrieving the tomatoes from the boiling water, immediately submerge them into the ice water, which will stop the cooking process immediately. Once you get the hang of it, you won’t need to do this extra step anymore.

The second question is: Do I really have to take the seeds out of the tomatoes?” To me, there aren’t many “have-tos” in cooking (as opposed to baking). A lot of what you do really should depend largely on personal preference. However, there are several reasons why most people remove the seeds in tomatoes. First, some people find them hard to digest. And second, the seeds are suspended within a water-rich substance that, when added to a sauce, will naturally dilute it. This means that, in order to get your sauce to the proper consistency, you’ll need to cook it longer to evaporate this added water. Consequently, this extra cooking time can remove some of the fresh tomato taste from your sauce and affect some of the other flavors as well. If removing the seeds feels like too much of a bother, I suggest you omit this step and see how you like the sauce. That’s the beauty of home cooking.

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Special Equipment


Large pot, preferably with a built-in strainer (optional), for blanching tomatoes before peeling (only when making the sauce, using fresh tomatoes)

6-quart, heavy-bottomed, non-reactive saucepan with a lid (for fresh tomato sauce): Use a 4-quart saucepan for the Quick Variation and a 3-quart saucepan for the Ultra-Speedy Sauce

For the sauce

• Five pounds ripe plum (Roma) tomatoes, or four 28-ounce cans peeled plum tomatoes, drained
• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 10 cloves garlic, minced and divided
• 1 cup chopped basil, prepared as needed
• 1 teaspoon crumbled dried oregano
• 1 28-ounce can tomato puree
• 2 rounded tablespoons tomato paste
• Strip of rind from Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 1-inch wide by 4 inches long) (optional)
• Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1) To peel and seed your tomatoes: Bring large pot of water to a rapid boil and, working in small batches, put some tomatoes into the water and count to ten. Remove them from the water and place in a large bowl. Use your thumbnail or a small paring knife to remove the stem end and cut the tomato in half through the waist. Squeeze the seeds out and coarsely chop the tomatoes. If using canned tomatoes, use kitchen scissors to snip them in half and gently squeeze out the seeds. Snip them all into smallish irregular pieces.

2) To assemble the sauce and simmer: Heat a 6-quart nonreactive, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat and, when hot, add the olive oil and butter. When the butter is bubbling, stir in the flour. Let it bubble for about 15 seconds, then stir in the red pepper flakes, half the minced garlic, 1/2 cup chopped basil and the oregano. When fragrant (about 15 seconds), stir the chopped tomatoes, puree and tomato paste. When combined, push the cheese rind deep into sauce, if using, and bring the sauce to a brisk simmer. Reduce the heat to low and cook the sauce gently, with the cover ajar, for 35 minutes. Add the remaining garlic, chopped basil and a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper.

A heartier variation of the above
Use a food processor fitted with the steel blade, to finely chop 1 quartered medium yellow onion, 1 trimmed and sliced stalk of celery, 1 peeled and sliced medium carrot and 5 cloves chopped garlic. Increase the butter to 3 tablespoons and, together with the olive oil, gently sweat these vegetables, directly covered with a piece of greased wax paper for 10 minutes, or until fragrant and starting to soften. Discard the paper and stir in the flour, red pepper flakes and half the basil, as directed in the original recipe. Raise the heat to medium and cook for a minute or so, just to fully incorporate everything. Follow the remaining sauce instructions above.

A quick sauce variation
By just changing the type of tomatoes, you can have quicker version of marinara sauce that’s still great tasting. Heat a 4-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat and, when hot, add three tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. When the oil is hot, add half the minced garlic, basil and the red pepper flakes. When fragrant (about 10 seconds), add a 28-ounce can each of tomato puree and crushed tomatoes. Bring to a full simmer through the center, and then add two 28-ounces cans drained canned plum tomatoes, snipped into irregular pieces, using kitchen scissors. Bring back to a full simmer, and then reduce the heat to low and cook the sauce gently for 15 minutes with the cover ajar. Add a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper, the remaining garlic and the last dose of basil and simmer 5 minutes more.

An ultra-speedy version
When time feels nonexistent, substitute your favorite prepared marinara sauce for all of the tomatoes. Heat a 3-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat and, when hot, add a few tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. When the oil is hot, add half the minced garlic, basil and the red pepper flakes. When fragrant (about 10 seconds), add about eight cups of your favorite prepared tomato or marinara sauce (I use four 15-ounce containers of the refrigerated Buitoni Marinara Sauce). Stir to combine, and then bring to a full bubble through the center. Reduce the heat to low and simmer 15 minutes with the cover ajar. Add a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper, the remaining garlic and the last dose of basil and simmer 5 minutes more.

Timing is Everything
All of the marinara sauce variations can be stored, when cool, in the refrigerator for up to 4 days, or frozen for 3 months.

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Since removing the stones from meaty ripe olives is so simple (and since prepitted ones are usually more expensive), I suggest pitting a few more than needed and keep any extras in the refrigerator, to use throughout the week in omelets, sauces, breads, salads, etc.

To pit a black olive, place it on your work surface and lay the blade of a chef’s knife, flat, on top. Push down on the blade, firmly, without overdoing it. You’ll feel (and almost hear) a dull “pop” as the olive meat releases from its stone. Use the knife to slit the olive down one side, then open it and expose the pit. You should be able to just lift out the stone.

Pitting green olives, however, is another story. Because they’re unripe, they relentlessly cling to their stones. So use a small sharp paring knife to slice the meat off each side of the pit.

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Garlic comes in several sizes and colors. “Elephant” garlic, actually a form of leek, has huge cloves in comparison to regular all-purpose garlic, but the taste is much less assertive; try it raw with dip. The regular garlic is best for cooking, and the pure white variety is easier to peel than the heads with a purplish tinge. But whatever you buy make sure the cloves are firm and throw them out when they soften.

If you cook with loads of garlic (as I do), peel a few heads at the beginning of each week and refrigerate the cloves in a screw-top jar. This is a real time saver. Remove any cloves that begin to “sprout” at the center and use them right away. If the sprout is light green, small and thin, it won’t interfere with flavor. But if the sprout is long and a darker shade of green, it tends to impart a bitter flavor; to remove it, cut the peeled clove in half lengthwise and pull the sprout down and out.

To crack and peel garlic: Pull the desired amount of cloves away from the head. Lay clove on one of its flat sides, and apply pressure to the clove with the widest section of a chef’s knife until you hear a “crack.” Lift blade and remove skin. If this doesn’t work the first time, try once more. If you plan to chop or mince the garlic, it doesn’t matter how hard you smash it, but if your recipe calls for a whole, slivered or bruised clove, or if you plan on refrigerating peeled cloves for future use, take care to press gently.

To bruise garlic: When you want a garlic flavor to penetrate a shallow layer of cooking oil when pan-frying, it’s necessary to bruise the whole clove so its robust flavor can be released. To do this, apply a bit more pressure on the flat side of the knife while cracking the clove. Remove skin and hopefully you will have cracked open a small slit in the clove without actually crushing it. A crushed clove is more likely to burn in the hot oil.

To flatten, chop or mince garlic: After peeling cloves, slice off the tough root ends. Press down on each clove with a chef’s knife, as you did before peeling and smash so it lies perfectly flat. Then use the sharp blade of the chef’s knife to go back and forth rhythmically over the garlic until it is chopped or minced to the desired consistency.

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As vegetables go, few have as much flavor potential as leeks. However, they are also one of the dirtiest vegetables around. To clean a leek meticulously, first cut off the coarse stringy roots. Because most of the long dark leaves are tough and woody, cut off all but 1 1/2 inches of that part. (If desired, after a thorough washing, use these in stock.) Using a sharp 8-inch chef’s knife, cut down the entire shaft of the leek. If planning to braise them whole, don’t cut all the way through the bottom (outside) layer. The dirtiest part of the leek is where it changes from light green to a darker shade.

Open the leek, like a book (keeping the layers intact) and, starting at the green end, held horizontally to the side (or dark green pointed down), rinse the leek thoroughly, under cool water. Look through all the white and green layers, checking for dirt and, after wiping the leek dry, slice it or leave it whole, depending on your particular recipe.

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It always surprises me that many experienced cooks are unaware of the difference between obtaining an accurate dry measurement and a liquid one. Of course, liquids are easy to measure in a glass cup since they pour and settle at the correct measurement line. Having said this, it’s best to bend down, as you pour, so that you can see the actual measurement at eye level. Without doing this, it’s easy to misinterpret your measured amount of liquid.

Measuring dry ingredients is quite different. In order to have real success with most baking recipes, it is essential to measure ingredients like flour, sugar, baking powder and spices with the “dip, scoop and sweep” method using specifically designed dry measuring cups. Nested in sets, these cups are made of either plastic or stainless steel, which I prefer since they latter since they are more durable. The standard set consists of cups with capacities of 1/8, 1/4, 1/3, 1/2 and 1 cup; there is also a very handy 2-cup measure which usually must be purchased separately. Although measuring spoons are used to measure accurately small amounts of sugar, spices and leavenings, the technique is the same.

For measuring flour or sugar, make sure that your canisters have a mouth that’s wide enough to allow you easy access with a loaded 2-cup dry measuring cup. Also, before dipping your cup into flour, it’s best to give the flour a good swish with a whisk to lighten it and break up any lumps. Dip the cup or measuring spoon into your dry ingredient and scoop it up so it mounds at the top. Don’t shake off any excess which condenses the ingredient and creates and inaccurate measurement. Instead, slide the straight blunt edge of a knife twice across the top of the cup or spoon so excess falls back into the canister and the ingredient is perfectly level with the rim. This procedure is applicable to all dry ingredients when a specific measurement is required in a recipe.

For measuring other dry ingredients like salt, leavening agents, spices, etc., use the same technique as above, to get a level measurement in your nested measuring spoons.

To measure semi solids (i.e. shortening): Either fill the dry measure with shortening, using a rubber spatula or scoop the shortening up, by inserting the inverted measure into the can of shortening. Either way, the shortening should, at first, be mounded over the top. Give the bottom of the measure a good rap on the counter to help the shortening settle in and to remove any air pockets. Then, take a straight edge utensil and level off the top. Use a rubber spatula or your finger to release the shortening from the measure.

To measure soft sugars (i.e. dark and light brown sugars): Pack the sugar into the dry measuring cup so that it’s firmly embedded within and meets the top rim. If done correctly, after inverting the cup and tapping it out, the shape of the cup should be retained in the sugar.

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